Corset Making Supplies

Corset Making Supplies
A corset can be worn in any way you imagine

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Make your own Bias Tape for Corset Finishing

Making Your Own Bias Tape


This is simple if you have the right tools: a two-inch wide see-through ruler and rotary cutter or scissors.

First: Do the Math!

For Single Bias Binding


Bias tape needs to be at least four times the desired finished width of the binding. Add ¼” (6mm) to 3/8” (9mm) total to help with the stretching and easing you may have to accommodate when binding curves.

measuring single Bias Tape

For Double Bias Binding


Bias tape needs to be at least six times the desired finished width of the binding. Add ¼” (6mm) to 3/8” (9mm) total to help with the stretching and easing you may have to accommodate when binding curves.

measuring double bias tape

  1. Decide on the width of bias tape you want. This depends on your seam allowance at top and bottom, what kind of effect you want, and which method of binding you choose, either single or double. Assuming the seam allowance is ½” (13mm) and you’re using the single bias method, then you’ll need bias tape that is at least 2” (50mm) wide plus 1/4” (6mm) for a total width of 2 ¼” or 56mm.
  2. Spread your fabric out on the table. It should be pressed and wrinkle free. Your see-through ruler should have small squares on it and you can line these squares up with the selvedge so it is running diagonally through the squares.
  3. Use disappearing ink or chalk to draw the lines on both sides of the ruler for the first strip and use one of these lines to line up your ruler for the next strip. Repeat to get the number of strips you require.

marking bias strips on your fabric

Note: You may want to measure the lengths of the top and bottom edges to see what lengths you’ll need. If the lengths are longer than what you can get in one piece of bias tape, then you’ll need to piece the bias tape before sewing it onto your corset.

  1. Cut the bias strips along the lines you have drawn
  2. If you need to piece them together do so by using the angles already found at either end. Don’t cut these angles off as you need to sew the pieces together on the bias to keep the stretch characteristic.

joining bias strips

Applying Bias Tape


There are two basic methods of applying bias tape to a garment; single and double binding. Double binding is sometimes known as French binding.

Single Binding


single binding, stitched to edge


  1. With right sides together and raw edges aligned stitch the bias tape to the edge of the corset, having folded back the end of the tape so that it will be encased within the bias binding when finished. You’re stitching along the seam line.
  2. Flip the bias tape over the seam allowance.
  3. Press the bias tape seam.
  4. Fold the raw edge of the bias tape toward the raw edge of the corset.
  5. Roll the folded bias tape over the seam allowance so that the folded edge is on your stitching line that attached the bias tape to the corset.
  6. Hand stitch the folded edge into place.

applying single binding

Double Binding


diouble bias binding, folded in half

  1. Fold the bias tape down the center lengthwise, wrong sides together, raw edges together.
  2. Place the bias tape on the edge of the corset (right sides together) with the raw edges of the bias tape lined up with the raw edge of the corset. Fold back the front and back ends so they will be encased in the bias tape once it’s sewn into place. Stitch the bias tape to the corset along the seam line, stitching through both layers of bias tape and the corset.
  3. Flip the bias tape toward the raw edges and roll it over the edge to the inside of the corset. The folded edge should come to the stitching line you have just sewn.
  4. Hand stitch the folded edge of the bias tape in place.

applying double biasd binding

Both methods have been illustrated using 2” wide bias tape, a common size available for purchase at most retail stores.

applying single bias binding to a curveapplying double bias binding to a curve

For more corset & costume making tips check out http://www.farthingales.on.ca/tips-index.php and if you appreciate any of the information please be sure to click the "recommend" button on the page!

1 comment:

  1. I really appreciate the posts and how-to's on your blog. If you would like an idea for another, here's my question:
    I have your Dore corset pattern and have started a practice version for fit. What is the best way to make that 'muslin'? Will I have to actually make it with all layers of compatible fabric? or can I make it from something else that will allow me to estimate size and fit?

    Thanks so much.

    ReplyDelete