.jpg)
Corset busks that open have been around since the mid 1800's. Made of metal an opening corset busk consists of two parts; one side has knobs and the other loops. When the loops are hooked over the knobs the busk acts like a clasp to hold a corset shut. This means that you can get into a corset without someone to dress you. Always loosen the corset laces before attempting to get into and out of the corset. Since a corset is essentially smaller that your body, trying to put the corset on without loosening the corset laces will be impossible and trying to take the corset off without loosening the ties will potentially damage the busk.
You have choices when buying a busk. The most common busk is a "regular busk" or "straight busk" which is white with silver coloured knobs and loops. More colour options have become available in the last few years so you can now get "gold busks" that have gold knobs and loops, "antique brass busks", "black busks" and even ones that have "diamonds"/clear crystals set in the knobs that are called "diamond busks" (though no, they are not real diamonds). Having colour options means you can co-ordinate the busk to the fashion fabric.
There are also "wide busks" and "spoon busks" both of which are silver in colour and made from stainless steel. The "wide busks" are extremely supportive and a good choice for women or men needing/wanting more support - they don't flex nearly as well as a regular busk so they don't curve over the chest well. The "Spoon busk" is historically accurate for corsets of the late 1800's and the bowl of the spoon is meant to cup the stomach...not the chest!
The busk (regardless of style or colour) should be put into the corset with the loop piece on the right-hand side so that the wearer can pull the loop section with their right hand while holding the left side in place. Hooking the loops over the knobs.
Busks can be found in many lengths from 4" to 18" so you can likely find one for any project you have.
The link below will take you an article about getting into and out of a corset with an opening busk.
The next link will take you to a wide selection of articles related to costume making
and the last link will take you to a web page to see all the busks that Farthingales offers for sale
Great explanation - and a great selection of busks! I've added a link to this page on my new website.
ReplyDeleteI'm going to be making a new corset to replace my current Victorian one so it flattens my stomach out a little more for the 1890s-1903 dress styles. My current one creates a bowl shape on my stomach (bleh) that was fine with the big skirts of the 60s, and ok with the bustles. But the straighter skirts of the 90s and early 1900s need more of a flat tummy. Will a spoon busk provide this? Or do you have any suggestions? Is there a corset pattern more suitable to this time period? BTW, I don't have the skills to grade one up from a book, so I'm dependent on patterns.
ReplyDeleteVal
That's more a pattern issue. Try the corset on and have someone grab the seams that go over the belly one at a time. Have them pin the excess. Then adjust the pattern to take the excess out. Not a great explanation but I'm hoping you can visualize that. By using the same pattern but altering the tummy area you know it will still fit everywhere else.
DeleteOk, I already know its too big now at the bottom because I have that almost completely closed. I'll see if the smaller size corrects that problem.
DeleteThank you Linda!
Val