Dyeing Coutil and Corset Laces

Just to experiment I tried dying some coutil and the two new Farthingales corset laces and here is the result.

I used Dylon Violet dye and worked in a pot on my stove stop as I was just dyeing sample lengths. The instructions that came with the dye were very easy to follow.

I put all the pieces into the pot at the same and they all stayed in the pot for a full 20 minutes.


Item number 88-71WC-01 is white cotton corset lacing with a waxed finish. I assumed this product would not dye evenly because the of the finish but in fact it took the dye fastest and deepest; the finish must have completely dissolved. Unfortunately once the finish was gone the lace increased in width; it started at 1/4" wide and ended up at 3/8" wide. But the colour is intense.

Item number 01-7671N-01 is white nylon braid corset lacing. It did not take the dye as quickly but it did take the colour equally intensely and the dyeing did not noticeably alter the size or feel of the corset lacing. The nylon corset lacing had a beautiful sheen before it was dyed and after.    

Coutil is only available in a limited number of colours and patterns but it's all either 100% cotton or a cotton viscose blend so I expected some success with dyeing. Some coutil has a finish applied to it that may effect how evenly the coutil takes dye but  none of the pieces I tested were a problem. The one I was most interested in experimenting with was the new rose brocade coutil that is black with "champaign" roses item #74-1148-92. I was hoping that the roses would turn deep purple and they might have if I left the sample in the dye-pot longer. While I didn't get the deep purple I had hoped for, I was not disappointed with the result...the pale lavender roses on a black background is quite stunning and I actually like it better than if they had gone deep purple. The photo does not do the fabric justice!

I also added satin coutil and a satin brocade coutil to the mix and got fantastic results for both. The plain satin; item 74-1150-01 and the satin/brocade known as bzy floral coutil #74-1158-01 took the dye well and ended up a perfect match with each other and the with the nylon lacing!

While I can't image when I'm going to get a chance to dye more fabric and make a new corset I am definitely inspired to find time soon.

The last piece I tested was a cotton viscose brocade coutil 74-1130-20 "diamond brocade". It started out beige but ended up the same shade of deep purple as the satin, however it got rolled up in the pot and only the edges were exposed to enough dye to colour it so I'm not sure about it's success. I suspect it would dye well provided it was all equally exposed.

You can find more information on the over 20 coutil patterns and colours that are available by going to:

 

https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Coutil-Corset-fabric-s/1818.htm





New Coutil

Coutil is the ultimate fabric for making corsets; it's not inclined to stretch, it's durable and it's attractive! Theatre's don't just use it for corsets - they use it as the under-structure for gown bodices of many time periods because it holds the shape well and encases bones safely. Ballet  and Opera companies also use it as durability is important.

While coutil is extremely functional don't assume it can't be pretty!  The images below are two new coutil patterns that are now stocked at Farthingales. The just arrived today and they are worth looking at.

The newest addition to the Rose patterned brocade coutil is black with a champagne coloured rose. Farthingales has this same rose patterned brocade coutil in other colours; white on white, beige on beige, black on black, red on black (really stunning) and pale pink. A cotton rayon blend means the rose pattern on this coutil has a subtle sheen against the matte background.

 

 

The "dot coutil" or "spot coutil" is the most popular among theatres because while it is a little pricey it's incredibly durable and easy to work with. The newest addition to this coutil pattern is black with a pale silvery grey dot. This fabric offers awesome support all on it's own. Other colour options for this "dot coutil" are: white on white, black on black, pink on cream and red on black.

 

 

The Rose Brocade Coutil and Spot Coutil are not the only coutil fabrics available. Farthingales Corset Making Supplies had over 25 colour/pattern options to choose from so you can co-ordinate your coutil with a fashion fabric or use it alone and still get a very fashionable garment.

 

To see the whole selection of coutil patterns and colours visit:

http://farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/products.php?cat=coutil

 

 

Two New Coutil Patterns at Farthingales

Farthingales Corset Making Supply will soon be adding to their already extensive selection of coutil.

Currently they stock around 25 different coutil fabrics that range from the most basic herring bone weaves to satin, tiny dots and various brocade patterns. The two new coutil fabrics are due to arrive by early August and while they are not new patterns they are new colour combinations.

 

The "Spot Coutil" is an incredibly durable coutil, very dense and very easy to work with; it's a favorite of several theatres.  The new colour is black with tiny charcoal dots; the black is a matte satin weave and the dots are a shiny satin.

 

 

The "Rose Brocade Coutil" has been very popular in all the colour variations that Farthingales offers and the new one is matte black with shiny "champagne" coloured roses! Evening wear designers have been buying it to use as a foundation for strapless bodices.

 

Both of these coutil fabrics are cotton viscose blends.

 

More coutil fabric can be found on the Farthingales web site

http://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/coutil.php

Check out the whole selection!

 

NEW COUTIL                                                                                        

There are 5 new qualities of Coutil at Farthingales!

Two are shown here; black with red dots (dot coutil is the strongest of all coutils and a favorite of many theatres for it's durability), black with red rose brocade coutil which we sold out of quickly the last time we had it (about 3 years ago). These two along with a lavendar rose brocade and two blue/grey coutils ( a herringbone coutil and a matte satin coutil) have limited amounts - we bought all the manufacturer had so if you're interested you may want to order soon. We don't know if or when we'll be able to get them again.

Farthingales now has close to 30 qualities of coutil. So it's worth
checking the website for the complete selection.
  www.farthingales.on.ca  Click the link for the Farthingales website and more coutil than you imagined existed. You can order a coutil swatch pack of all our coutils so you can feel the quality and see the real colours.

What is Coutil?

This is a question I often get so I'm going to answer it here "in a nutshell".

Coutil is a fabric that is engineered specifically for corset making. It can be a very fine herringbone weave but it can also be a brocade or a satin. What makes coutil coutil is ...a few things. Coutil has a high thread count, which means it's not inclined to stretch and bones are not likely to work holes through it. Coutil is not bulky, it's very fine and this coupled with it's strength make it the ultimate fabric for corset making and for the foundation of evening wear bodices. It is always made from natural fibers, either 100% cotton or a cotton viscose blend so it breathes and absorbs sweat.

 Beautiful brocade coutil means you can make a corset from one layer of fabric and it will be both strong and beautiful. Use a layer of herringbone coutil cut on the crossgrain for the lining and a layer of satin coutil or brocade coutil as the exterior layer and you'll have a corset strong enough for tight-lacing.

Theaters have learned the value of coutil - a well made corset can last for years with a little care when made from coutil. But...not all coutil is created equal and there are companies selling "coutil" at what may seem amazing prices. Be wary of great priced coutil - high thread count means more threads required and more labour to weave so good coutil is costly. Some companies assume that because a fabric has a herringbone weave it is coutil, but that is not the case.

Coutil is not just the perfect fabric for corset making it's also used for period boned bodices, doublet foundations, basques to mount multiple layers of net to for a skirt, bust flatteners; anything that requires strong durable and fine fabric.

Farthingales has an extensive selection of coutil - over 20 qualities and you can order a sample pack.

Regency Corset decoartive bone casings

The coutil I used for this Regency Corset was a coutil in cream (the cream shade is no longer available but white, black and beige are). I opted to use pale pink thread for the top stitched bone casings and I used a decorative stitch to enhance the casings and make them a design detail. The result was a very pretty corset.

Regency Corset - cording detail

I used the Mantua Makers Regency Corset Pattern for 1800-1820 to make this corset which I made from rose brocade coutil. The cording in the photo was not a detail discussed in the pattern but one that I added.  The lacing method used was "spiral lacing".     

 All product used can be found on the Farthingales website