"Truly Victorian" created an Edwardian Corset Pattern and this is my project using the pattern.


The Truly Victorian “Edwardian” corset pattern is based on historical research on corsets of 1903. It has a low full bust and long hip and creates the “Pigeon Breast” look popular at the time. It does not lend its self well to modern interpretation for fashion. To get this look there is padding required and the patterns for both bum padding and breast padding are included.

The pattern envelope includes pattern pieces for the corset that will fit a chest from 32” to 58”, a waist of 19” – 45” and hip from 32” to 58” as well as bust and hip pad pattern to help create the correct silhouette.

I made this one from “diamond” coutil in a flesh tone and I embellished it with fancy stitches in pale turquoise. It does not fit my mannequin well but I love the shape.





The sizing of this pattern is unique and I really like the method that Truly Victorian has used; numbers are not used to indicate size, letters are. This means there is no confusion between the “size” of the pattern and the “size” we wear from a retail store AND we can escape the stress that numbers can cause when we think we wear a size 12 but need a size 20 pattern. The size I’ve made is “G”, which according to the chart is for a 32” waist.

I glued the pattern to card stock – something I always do, then cut along the lines indicated for a size “G”. The lines are clearly indicated and the pattern is very professional looking – I almost didn’t want to cut into it because it looked so flawless.

Instructions for this pattern are not extensive but it is not a hard corset to make. I opted not to include a lining and to use just one layer of coutil, I chose a flesh tone diamond brocade coutil.

I embellished the hip gore pieces before sewing them into the corset and I embellished the center backs before putting them together but all the other embellishing occurred after the pieces were put together. Some of my embellishment was as simple as top stitching in a contrast colour.

I used flesh colour bone casing tape to cover the raw seams and used bias strips of the “diamond” coutil to bind the top and bottom edges. I’d been a bit concerned that the coutil bias would be too thick and hard to manage but it worked beautifully and easily.  The links below should take you to the web page where the items are sold - the pattern is also sold on the web site - I just somehow missed listing it. www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

I made a size “G” which is pretty much the middle of the sizes and I required the following items:
 

Item	Quantity	Product#	Link to catlog
13" busk	1 pair	91-8550-13	Busks
coutil	1.2 m	74-1130-20	Coutil
lacing	6m	18-7178-04	Lacing
bone casing 1/2"	5m	34-7212-20	Bone Casing
grommets size oo	30	60-8820N-kit	Grommet Kits
spring steel bones 36cm	2	50-8308-36	Spring Steel Bones
spring steel bones 34cm	4	50-8308-34
spring steel bones 32cm	4	50-8308-32
spring steel bones 35cm	4	50-8308-35
spring steel bones 33cm	2	50-8308-33

Grommets vs. Eyelets

"What is the difference between Grommets and Eyelets?"

Well, that depends on the grommets and the eyelets you are comparing. They are basically the same thing. Some people say that eyelets don't have washers but that's not a fact of all eyelets...only of some brands.

Grommets and eyelets at typically made of some type of metal (though plastic do exist), they're typically a circular short tube with a "flange" (flat end). 

 I use them primarily for the back of corsets, they strengthen the holes that the lacing goes through. The tube of the grommet or eyelet goes through the hole from the "right side of the fabric", so you'll see the flange on the outside of the garment. 

A washer looks a bit like the "flange" of the grommet or eyelet but without the tube. The washer goes on the "wrong side" of the fabric or on the "inside" of the garment. The washer keeps the grommet or eyelet secure during lacing and inhibits the grommet or eyelet pulling out of the fabric. Using fusible interfacing on the "wrong side" of the fabric also helps. Washers should always be used with grommets and eyelets unless the grommet and eyelet are just decorative.

Grommets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour) and matte black (gunmetal). washers are included and match the colour of the grommet.

Eyelets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour), antique brass, shiny black (made of aluminum), white (made of aluminum) and matte silver (aluminum).  Washers are sold separately and are matte silver (aluminum). Aluminum does not corode when exposed to persperation which makes it a great choice for corsets that are worn alot or exposed to other moister.

It's important to note that grommets and eyelets are not universal in size. Meaning not all grommets listed as size #00 can be set with the same grommet setter. You need to have the grommet setter that was designed and engineered to set the grommet brand you have otherwise you risk a poorly set grommet or worse...a grommet stuck onto your grommet setter, which means your garment is stuck on to!

www.farthingales.on.ca

Setting Grommets a.k.a. Eyelets

Eyelet Setting Instructions

(These instructions are included with the Eyelet Setting Kit #54-8600-kit)

Hammer Setting Eyelets

If you have ever set grommets using a Hammer Setter you will notice that the Eyelet Setter appears to be missing a piece; the base. We actually did call the manufacturer to confirm that all the pieces are here and they insisted there was no base piece to be had.

1. Make the hole using item #54-8600-cutr and a rubber or rawhide mallet.
2. Take the eyelet and push the shank into the hole until the eyelet is in place.
3. Place the eyelet on a solid, hard surface, the floor is best. Your fabric will be on top facing the ceiling with the eyelet underneath, almost hidden from view.
4. Take a washer and place it over the shank of the eyelet, the eyelet and washer will be shank to shank.
   Press gently until the washer is stable.
5. Center the Eyelet Setter (#54-8600-set) over the washer hole, the shaped end should fit neatly into the hole of the washer.
6. Hold the Eyelet Setter steady and bang a few times with the rubber mallet.
   Remove the Eyelet Setter and you are done.

NOTE: If the surface you are working on is not hard the eyelet may not set evenly and you will end up with little eyelet indentations in the surface of your table.

ALWAYS test the process on scrap first.

Eyelet

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Eyelet Setting by Machine

Click here for "How to Use the Eyelet Setting Machine"

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Grommet Setting Instructions

Using hammer set style tools; kit # 60-8810-kit (for #0 size grommets) or #54-8800-kit (for #00 size grommets).

You must have a rubber or rawhide mallet.

1. Punch a hole in your fabric using the "hole punch" and rubber mallet.
2. Place the grommet on the setting base, it should fit neatly in place.
3. Place you fabric on top of the grommet, being sure that the grommet shaft is coming up through the hole in the fabric.
4. Take the washer and slip it over the grommet shank, curved side upwards.
5. Center the setting tool with it’s "nose" going through the holes in washer grommet and base.
6. Strike with the rubber mallet two or three times
7. Check the set of the grommet, re-position and strike again if needed.

ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP FABRIC FIRST

You cannot remove grommets once they are set or even partially set so be careful.

Grommet Setting

Basic Grommet Setting Tips

1. Always test your setting technique on scrap of the same fabric and same number of layers.
2. When hammer setting, always work on a stable surface which will not flex with the pounding of the hammer. The floor is the best surface but can be awkward.
3. Work slowly and carefully. It is impossible to "unset" a grommet.
4. The grommet goes on the "right side" or "outside" of the garment and the washer goes on the inside.
5. Always use a washer!
6. Only use rubber or rawhide mallets.

Grommet Machines

The grommet machine sets grommets perfectly and with ease. It is however quite large and not to be considered a mobile unit. It requires three screws (not included) in order to be mounted onto a table. As it functions on the principle of leverage it must be mounted on a table in order to work effectively.

The machine and the dies for setting the grommets are sold separately. We stock only size #00 dies but other sizes are available by "Special Order"

INSTRUCTIONS

SETTING GROMMETS

A) By Machine
1. Punch hole in fabric	2. Place the washer over the spike in the bottom die. It is slightly concave on one side and this side should face upward. Pretend it has to hold a drop of water.
3. Fit the grommet through the hole in the fabric. Place the grommet and fabric onto the spike of the lower die, fabric side down.	4. Slowly pull the lever down so that the grommet sets evenly.
B) With Pliers
Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch. Use rubber mallet. Place grommet through hole in fabric. Pliers should be in your hand with the longest center "probe" coming up from the bottom jaw. Place the fabric and grommet on this with the grommet against the jaw, the fabric upper most and the probe through the grommet hole. Slowly squeeze the pliers shut to attain an even set. NOTE: We have found that the shank of grommet is not always long enough on this kit and that a rough finish can result. This could be uncomfortable next to the skin and a placket may be required to finish the garment.
C) With Hammer Punch Tool
Hammer Setting Kits require a rubber or rawhide hammer which is NOT included. Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch. Place grommet through the hole in the fabric. Place grommet and fabric, with grommet on bottom, onto the round metal disk. Grommet should rest in the circular groove found on the top of the disk.	Place washer over grommet with fabric in between. Place the steel setting tool over the washer with the "probe" entering the grommet and washer hole.
Be sure all pieces are in place and hammer 3-4 times.	Grommets can be purchased at www.farthingales.on.ca

Hook & Eye Tape Q&A

I recently received an e-mail with several well put questions about Hook and Eye Tape. I'm posting my response here and hope to write more in the near future and post it in the Tips N Tricks section of the www.farthingales.on.ca web site.


I’m interested in using hook and eye tape for a tight bodice and would like to know your perspective on the different kinds.

Hook & eye tape is not the best choice for corsets so we don't use it much. We sell hook and eye tape to many people and some ballet companies use the alternating tape because it won't come undone when the ballerina arches backwards.

I’ve checked the web and your blog and haven’t found an opinion on sewn vs riveted hook & eye tape.

Sewn vs. riveted is a matter of personal choice and is dependent on skill and time - it takes excellent skills to get the hooks and eyes all properly lined up so my assumption is most people who buy the tapes either don't have the skill or don't want to spend the time.

I expect that larger hooks & eyes would be better than smaller ones.

"Better" is always difficult to determine. Larger is easier to both sew on and to manage when doing a garment up but they are not always the most suitable as they are bulkier.Speaking of doing the garment up - does the person have to get into the garment without assistance? Is there any stretch fabric involved? A non-stretch garment that is tight(meaning there is no "ease") is almost impossible to get on without assistance when using anykind of hook and eye system.

The riveted ones seem stronger, but if they break, there’s no repair except replacing the tape.

The tape needs to sewn onto the garment so that there is stitching supporting the hooks and eyes - stitch along the edges of the tape and between the hook and between the eyes to allow minimal lift - this lessens the chance of the hooks or eyes pulling out. We've never had an e-mail or call bringing our attention to this happening so in 12 years of selling the tape I've never heard of the hooks or eyes pulling out - this does not mean it's never happened but I assume if it has it's been rare.

Any bending or rusting issues?

Never heard of any of them rusting and never seen it - a long time ago I soaked all the metal objects we have in water - nothing rusted.If you use the small hooks yes you will get bending out of shape if they are under unreasonable pressure - which can happen when you take off a corset or put one on - and you only have one hook done up - the pressure on the one hook is incredible - think of doing up the zipper on a dress that's too small - you can blow a tooth out of the zipper...but if the dress fits it's not a problem.

Any issues regarding the metal rivets wearing away the fashion fabric?

I can't see any reason they would. The tape is sewn to the fabric so there is no friction as there is no movement of rivets against fabric. BUT keep in mind if the garment is tight you need really strong fabric as the foundation or the fabric may rip before the hooks pull out of the tape.

NEW COUTIL                                                                                        

There are 5 new qualities of Coutil at Farthingales!

Two are shown here; black with red dots (dot coutil is the strongest of all coutils and a favorite of many theatres for it's durability), black with red rose brocade coutil which we sold out of quickly the last time we had it (about 3 years ago). These two along with a lavendar rose brocade and two blue/grey coutils ( a herringbone coutil and a matte satin coutil) have limited amounts - we bought all the manufacturer had so if you're interested you may want to order soon. We don't know if or when we'll be able to get them again.

Farthingales now has close to 30 qualities of coutil. So it's worth
checking the website for the complete selection.
  www.farthingales.on.ca  Click the link for the Farthingales website and more coutil than you imagined existed. You can order a coutil swatch pack of all our coutils so you can feel the quality and see the real colours.

Corset Supplies

One of the things I love about pulling orders is seeing all the product for a corset together - somehow it's art even before the corset is made.  Here is black dot coutil with black bone casing tape, black petersham ribbon, black satin lacing ribbon, spiral bones and tips. All I need to add are black grommets and a black busk - but this order did not include those.      Farthingales has a huge selection of coutil with bone casing tap, petersham ribbon and satin ribbon to match some.   www.farthingales.on.ca