Hook and Eye Tape Application.

Why sew on a bunch of hooks and eyes by hand if you can use hook and eye tape which does not require you to measure for every piece applied. This is faster and saves your hands.
It's best to first explain what hook and eye tape is.  Typically, you can buy hook tape and eye tape at most fabric stores.  One of the tapes has hooks on it and the other tape has eyes on it, usually these hooks and eyes are sewn into the tapes.  With alternating hook and eye tape.  The hooks and the eyes are riveted to a single tape and they alternate in placement of hook followed by an eye followed by a hook followed by an eye and so on.
The advantage of alternating hook and eye tape is that once the hook and eye tape is done up it is very difficult for it to come undone without effort.  Standard hook and eye tapes come undone fairly easily.  Alternating hook &eye tape are an advantage in the back of dance costumes, because no matter what motion the dancer does, there is limited to no risk of the hooks and eyes coming undone. 

The image below shows two rows of alternating hook and eye tape.             The hooks and eyes are fairly substantial corset hooks and corset eyes that are riveted on to a stiff twill tape. Notice how each twill tape has a hook and then an eye in alternating sequences. Be sure to confirm how the hooks and eyes line up before you cut the tape! A hook needs to be opposite an eye. If you’re not careful you can end up with the problem below.

 Keep in mind it's also very difficult to undo a garment you're wearing yourself if you have used alternating hook and eye tape.  It's also very difficult to get it done up yourself!
                                                                                                      
When using hook and eye tape it is important that the hooks and eyes close in a manner that does not allow the skin to be visible between the two edges of fabric.  If the tapes were sewn to the edge of the fabric you would get a gap between the edges of the fabric as indicated in the image below.
                                               
  “right side”                                                   “wrong side”
 

 

1. Fold and press your fabrics along the “center front” line (or the “center back” if you are applying to hook and eye tape to the backs).  It is important to press this fold.  Once the hook and eye tapes are sewn on it will not be possible to press this edge.

               
2.  Using a narrow foot on your machine (likely a zipper foot), check that the foot will fit in between the hook and the eye on the tape.

              
3. Open the pressed fabric edge up and align the hooks and eyes of the tape, with the fold line that indicates “center front”.  Using a pencil or pen mark the center point between each hook and eye both on the tape and on the fabric.  You’ll use these lines to confirm placement of the tape so mark carefully and be sure the tape does not cover the marks you make on the fabric.
4. Stitch each of these short lines between every hook and every eye. Sewing only through the tape and the single layer of fabric. Stitch from the raw edge to the fold mark and back so that each row is double stitched.

Fold the raw ends of the tape under and stitch in the same way unless the tape will go all the way to the end of the fabric and will get bound off with it.

5.  Refold the fabric along the “center front” (or “center back”) line.  Pin along the fold to make sure the fabrics stay in place.  Stitch close to the riveted edge of the hooks and eyes, stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric. This will create a bone casing that allows you to slide a bone behind the hooks and eyes for further support…it does increase the challenge of getting the hooks and eyes done-up and un-done.

If you have no need or interest in creating a bone casing stitch the tape to only one layer of fabric at this point by not folding the fabric along the “center front” line.

                                                                                                                           
The following steps do not include a bone casing.
 
6. The fabric was not folded back into place and the long row of stitching to secure the tape to the fabric was sewn through the tape and one layer of fabric only.
 
                       
7.  Now fold the fabric into place along the “center front” line, pin along the fold and stitch a second row of stitching along the edge of the tape. Stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric.
     
                         
8. Attach the hook and eye tape for the other side onto the “sewn on” hook and eye tape.  This will determine the placement of the second tape on the other piece of fabric.  Slide the other piece of fabric into place so that the folded edges fo “center front” or “center back” butt snuggly against each other. Mark the tape and the fabric as outlined previously.

                                                                                        
9. Stitch the tape to the fabric in the same way as outlined previously. BUT, notice that the placement of the hook and eye tape on the fabric may not be the same.  I prefer the opening not to be centered over the bar of the eyes.

  View from the inside
 
  View from the outside

                    

 Want to order alternating hook and eye tape?

http://farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/products.php?cat=hook%26eye

How to Use Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

How to Apply Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

It's best to first explain what alternating hook and eye tape is. Typically, you can buy hook tape and eye tape at most fabric stores. One of the tapes has hooks on it and the other tape has eyes on it, usually these hooks and eyes are sewn into the tapes. With alternating hook and eye tape. The hooks and the eyes are riveted to a single tape and they alternate in placement of hook followed by an eye followed by a hook followed by an eye and so on.

The advantage of alternating hook and eye tape is that once the hook and eye tape is done up it is very difficult for it to come undone without effort. Standard hook and I tapes come undone fairly easily. Alternating hook & tape are an advantage in the back of dance costumes, because no matter what motion the dancer does, there is limited to no risk of the hooks and eyes coming undone.

The image on the below shows two rows of alternating hook and eye tape. The hooks and eyes are fairly substantial corset hooks and corset eyes that are riveted on to a stiff twill tape. Notice how each twill tape has a hook and then an eye in alternating sequence. Be sure to confirm how the hooks and eyes line up before you cut the tape! A hook needs to be opposite an eye. If you’re not careful you can end up with the problem below.

Keep in mind it's also very difficult to undo a garment you're wearing yourself if you have used alternating hook and eye tape. Not easy to get into or get out of, but sometimes this is a good or even important detail.

When using hook and eye tape it is important that the hooks and eyes close in a manner that does not allow the skin to be visible between the two edges of fabric. If the tapes were sewn to the edge of the fabric you would get a gap between the edges of the fabric as indicated in the image below.

“right side”                                    “wrong side”



 1.
Fold and press your fabrics along the “center front” line (or the “center back” if you are applying the hook and eye tape to the backs). It is important to press this fold. Once the hook and eye tapes are sewn on, it will not be possible to press this edge.



2.
Using a narrow foot on your machine (likely a zipper foot), check that the foot will fit inbetween the hook and the eye on the tape.





3.
Open the pressed fabric edge up and align the hooks and eyes of the tape, with the fold line that indicates “center front”. Using a pencil or pen mark the center point between each hook and eye both on the tape and on the fabric. You’ll use these lines to confirm placement of the tape so mark carefully and be sure the tape does not cover the marks you make on the fabric.

4.
Stitch each of these short lines between every hook and every eye. Sewing only through the tape and the single layer of fabric. Stitch from the raw edge to the fold mark and back so that each row is double stitched.

Fold the raw ends of the tape under and stitch in the same way unless the tape will go all the way to the end of the fabric and will get bound off with it.

5.
Refold the fabric along the “center front” (or “center back”) line. Pin along the fold to make sure the fabrics stay in place. Stitch close to the riveted edge of the hooks and eyes, stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric. This will create a bone casing that allows you to slide a bone behind the hooks and eyes for further support…it does increase the challenge of getting the hooks and eyes done-up and un-done.

If you have no need or interest in creating a bone casing stitch the tape to only one layer of fabric at this point by not folding the fabric along the “center front” line.

                                                                                                                          
The following steps do not include a bone casing.

6.
The fabric was not folded back into place and the long row of stitching to secure the tape to the fabric was sewn through the tape and one layer of fabric only.





7.
Now fold the fabric into place along the “center front” line, pin along the fold and stitch a second row of stitching along the edge of the tape. Stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric.





8.
Attach the hook and eye tape for the other side onto the “sewn on” hook and eye tape. This will determine the placement of the second tape on the other piece of fabric. Slide the other piece of fabric into place so that the folded edges of the “center front” or “center back” butt snuggly against each other. Mark the tape and the fabric as outlined above.





9.
Stitch the tape to the fabric in the same way as outlined above. BUT, notice that the placement of the hook and eye tape on the fabric may not be the same. I prefer the opening not to be centered over the bar of the eyes.



View from the inside


View from the outside

 

If you want to try "Alternating Hook and Eye Tape" go to www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com and look in the "Buy Corset Supplies" section

Hook & Eye Tape Q&A

I recently received an e-mail with several well put questions about Hook and Eye Tape. I'm posting my response here and hope to write more in the near future and post it in the Tips N Tricks section of the www.farthingales.on.ca web site.


I’m interested in using hook and eye tape for a tight bodice and would like to know your perspective on the different kinds.

Hook & eye tape is not the best choice for corsets so we don't use it much. We sell hook and eye tape to many people and some ballet companies use the alternating tape because it won't come undone when the ballerina arches backwards.

I’ve checked the web and your blog and haven’t found an opinion on sewn vs riveted hook & eye tape.

Sewn vs. riveted is a matter of personal choice and is dependent on skill and time - it takes excellent skills to get the hooks and eyes all properly lined up so my assumption is most people who buy the tapes either don't have the skill or don't want to spend the time.

I expect that larger hooks & eyes would be better than smaller ones.

"Better" is always difficult to determine. Larger is easier to both sew on and to manage when doing a garment up but they are not always the most suitable as they are bulkier.Speaking of doing the garment up - does the person have to get into the garment without assistance? Is there any stretch fabric involved? A non-stretch garment that is tight(meaning there is no "ease") is almost impossible to get on without assistance when using anykind of hook and eye system.

The riveted ones seem stronger, but if they break, there’s no repair except replacing the tape.

The tape needs to sewn onto the garment so that there is stitching supporting the hooks and eyes - stitch along the edges of the tape and between the hook and between the eyes to allow minimal lift - this lessens the chance of the hooks or eyes pulling out. We've never had an e-mail or call bringing our attention to this happening so in 12 years of selling the tape I've never heard of the hooks or eyes pulling out - this does not mean it's never happened but I assume if it has it's been rare.

Any bending or rusting issues?

Never heard of any of them rusting and never seen it - a long time ago I soaked all the metal objects we have in water - nothing rusted.If you use the small hooks yes you will get bending out of shape if they are under unreasonable pressure - which can happen when you take off a corset or put one on - and you only have one hook done up - the pressure on the one hook is incredible - think of doing up the zipper on a dress that's too small - you can blow a tooth out of the zipper...but if the dress fits it's not a problem.

Any issues regarding the metal rivets wearing away the fashion fabric?

I can't see any reason they would. The tape is sewn to the fabric so there is no friction as there is no movement of rivets against fabric. BUT keep in mind if the garment is tight you need really strong fabric as the foundation or the fabric may rip before the hooks pull out of the tape.