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For the Judy I was using, this meant my spaces were between 2 1/2” and 3” wide. This differed a little between each of the three cages I made. On my first cage, I pinned each ribbon to the waistband and into the dummy and proceeded to insert the hoop steel, however on the second and third ones I felt pretty confident with my spacing and decided to go ahead and secure the ribbons to the waistband before inserting the hoop steel. I decided to secure my ribbons by hand by doing a small whip stitch around the open edges of the waistband slot, but this step could be done by machine. I simply preferred the look of having done it by hand. (I mention all this because I used the same Petersham for my waistband as I did for the ribbons instead of belting and wanted to add a little more detail about the process than the pattern gives.)
Note: there are little snowflakes sewn to the bottom of the ribbons for decoration.
The upper hoops are not complete hoops – they’re open at the front to allow easy entry into the cage and to allow fabric to lie more flatly over the stomach area.
The front ribbons have a slot sewn into them for the steel and the very front edge is sewn closed with hand stitching so that the hoop can’t protrude beyond the front ribbon.
Even McCall’s suggests using these hoop connectors in their Costume Pattern #M7306
To find out more about hoop connectors click the link below
Pretend the body has been cut off at the waist and you are looking down at the circumference. Measure to each X mark.
Cut 4 on straight grain (horn is on bias)
Cut 4 on bias (horn is on straight)