Corset Making Supplies

Corset Making Supplies
A corset can be worn in any way you imagine

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Farthingales Summer Fashion Shoot

Farthingales worked with Grafische Photography and some awesomely fun models to create some images of corsets that were built at Farthingales using Farthingales products.   The image to the left is of a "waist cincher" corset and an "over bust" corset.                The over bust is made of two layers of coutil and a mix of both spiral steel bones and spring steel bones. It was inspired by a late 1800's corset.  The waist cincher corset was made with one layer of coutil and silk peau du soie, it also has a mix of bones and was inspired by a 1900's waist cincher. Both corsets have a busk.                                                   
The image to the right is of a reproduction 1800's corset. I bought the vintage piece at a Flea Market and copied the pattern. It's made of a single layer of fabric; matte satin coutil in beige. Beige bone casing tape was used to hold the bones which were a mix of spiral bones and spring steel bones. The corset has been trimmed with blue Petersham ribbon, cotton eyelet and blue thread embroidery. A busk is used to close the center front.

All corsets displayed on this blog are made using only Farthingales Corset Making Supplies  If you have any interest in corset making or costuming check out the web page and look for the Tips n Tricks section for more info.

If you'll be in Toronto October 12,13,14 2012 come see our booth at the Creativ Festival

Friday, August 31, 2012

A Corset is Not Just Underwear

Sometimes we see a corset but don't know that it's a corset. This vintage inspired dress, is in fact a circle skirt and corset. The corset is the perfect way to go strapless, getting support and curves comfortably.  Yes, comfortably...anything that fits is comfortable, wear a bra that's too small and you'll hate it - the same goes for a corset. With a corset there is never any hauling your bodice up - we've all seen the brides maids do it as they struggle to keep their dresses up. A corset is secure and
you're secure in'll feel secure and you'll feel confdent because you'll look amazing. Consider buiding a corset into your next strapless dress - summer sundress or stunning evening gown.

Farthingales has books, patterns and corset making supplies, as well as lots of information on the "Tips" pages.  check out our photo albums

Friday, August 17, 2012

Farthingales is Teaching a Corset Making Class

The class will be held in Stratford, Ontario (Canada)
October 20th & 21st, 2012
You can get more info at the link above

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Costume College

I'm currently in L.A. for Costume College where I taught a "busk application" class on Friday and cruised the Vendors market where I bought some lovely and unique brass buckles (Very Victorian) from Dragons Treasure.  There were so many great things there that you can't get anywhere else.

Then last night was the Gala Dinner preceeded by the Costume Parade - my favorite part of Costume College - seeing what everyone has created! Sat with Heather and Laura of Truly Victorian patterns - a line that Farthingales sells.

Today it's off to the Winery

I've come to Costume College for around 12 years and it's worth the trip and time off work. There are well over 100 classes (though I've not counted them) and everyone involved is a volunteer!

Monday, July 2, 2012

Debunking a Corset Myth

Myth #1 Corsets are Uncomfortable

Have you ever tried to fit into an old pair of jeans - ones that fit when you weighed a bit less?  Were they comfortable? Did the pinch and bite and hurt when you sat down?  You likley knew you were uncomfortable because the jeans did not fit. Corsets that don't fit are uncomfortable too....just like bras that are too small...or panties...or shoes!

So, corsets are not uncomfortable if they fit properly.

Does wearing one mean you have to move differently - Yes
Does wearing one mean you posture will change - Yes
Does wearing one limit the ability for your tummy to expand due to gas build up - Yes

Can any of these things effect comfort - absolutely - but that may not be a bad thing.

You'll be aware that you have to move without twisting your body - not a bad thing
You'll stand more errectly - look a little taller and your tummy won't proceed you into a room - not a bad thing
You'll want to avoid foods that cause you gas - NOT a bad thing

I'm not saying wear one every day all day. But I am saying :
  • "DON'T BE AFRAID of a Corset".
  • Lace your corset comfortably snug - you'll still get the look of curves if the corset has them
  • If you really want a corset, get a good solid one - not the little lingerie ones that have scrawny bones that will bend and poke you. But if you do have one of these - consider removing the old bones and replacing them with new ones
  • A corset can be an incredible support garment and - like a pair of spectacular shoes - you need to wear them a few times to make them fit you

More Corset Myths will be discussed here over the next few weeks.

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Make your own Bias Tape for Corset Finishing

Making Your Own Bias Tape

This is simple if you have the right tools: a two-inch wide see-through ruler and rotary cutter or scissors.

First: Do the Math!

For Single Bias Binding

Bias tape needs to be at least four times the desired finished width of the binding. Add ¼” (6mm) to 3/8” (9mm) total to help with the stretching and easing you may have to accommodate when binding curves.

measuring single Bias Tape

For Double Bias Binding

Bias tape needs to be at least six times the desired finished width of the binding. Add ¼” (6mm) to 3/8” (9mm) total to help with the stretching and easing you may have to accommodate when binding curves.

measuring double bias tape

  1. Decide on the width of bias tape you want. This depends on your seam allowance at top and bottom, what kind of effect you want, and which method of binding you choose, either single or double. Assuming the seam allowance is ½” (13mm) and you’re using the single bias method, then you’ll need bias tape that is at least 2” (50mm) wide plus 1/4” (6mm) for a total width of 2 ¼” or 56mm.
  2. Spread your fabric out on the table. It should be pressed and wrinkle free. Your see-through ruler should have small squares on it and you can line these squares up with the selvedge so it is running diagonally through the squares.
  3. Use disappearing ink or chalk to draw the lines on both sides of the ruler for the first strip and use one of these lines to line up your ruler for the next strip. Repeat to get the number of strips you require.

marking bias strips on your fabric

Note: You may want to measure the lengths of the top and bottom edges to see what lengths you’ll need. If the lengths are longer than what you can get in one piece of bias tape, then you’ll need to piece the bias tape before sewing it onto your corset.

  1. Cut the bias strips along the lines you have drawn
  2. If you need to piece them together do so by using the angles already found at either end. Don’t cut these angles off as you need to sew the pieces together on the bias to keep the stretch characteristic.

joining bias strips

Applying Bias Tape

There are two basic methods of applying bias tape to a garment; single and double binding. Double binding is sometimes known as French binding.

Single Binding

single binding, stitched to edge

  1. With right sides together and raw edges aligned stitch the bias tape to the edge of the corset, having folded back the end of the tape so that it will be encased within the bias binding when finished. You’re stitching along the seam line.
  2. Flip the bias tape over the seam allowance.
  3. Press the bias tape seam.
  4. Fold the raw edge of the bias tape toward the raw edge of the corset.
  5. Roll the folded bias tape over the seam allowance so that the folded edge is on your stitching line that attached the bias tape to the corset.
  6. Hand stitch the folded edge into place.

applying single binding

Double Binding

diouble bias binding, folded in half

  1. Fold the bias tape down the center lengthwise, wrong sides together, raw edges together.
  2. Place the bias tape on the edge of the corset (right sides together) with the raw edges of the bias tape lined up with the raw edge of the corset. Fold back the front and back ends so they will be encased in the bias tape once it’s sewn into place. Stitch the bias tape to the corset along the seam line, stitching through both layers of bias tape and the corset.
  3. Flip the bias tape toward the raw edges and roll it over the edge to the inside of the corset. The folded edge should come to the stitching line you have just sewn.
  4. Hand stitch the folded edge of the bias tape in place.

applying double biasd binding

Both methods have been illustrated using 2” wide bias tape, a common size available for purchase at most retail stores.

applying single bias binding to a curveapplying double bias binding to a curve

For more corset & costume making tips check out and if you appreciate any of the information please be sure to click the "recommend" button on the page!

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Corset Pattern for 1870-1895 Corset

A few months ago I made the Mantua Maker pattern for a 1880's corset. These are some details I incorporated.                                           I used only one layer of coutil - "diamond coutil" #74-1130-20 and white bone casing tape (thre is a beig one that mathces the coutil, but I wanted my casings to be very obvious.                       This is an interior view of the back, the rust colour is pre-packaged bias that I used to bind the raw edge of the back facing. Notice the two bones on either side of the grommets and close to them.

The top and bottom edges of the corset were also bound with the purchased bias tape and - hard to see here - the seams were top-stitched in rust thread to match.                                                      A single layer of coutil makes for a strong yet thin corset which creates and holds the desired shape without adding bulk. This "diamond" coutil is one of the strongest coutils and is very tightly woven.                                                                                       Sometimes simplicity is beauty.                                                                                                                                                                                          The finished corset has simple lines and has been finished with minimal decoration. 
To find our more about this pattern visit our web site and visit the Tips n Tricks section for more information or go directly to the "Buy Corset Supplies" section and check the list for "patterns".  You'll also find this coutil and many others on our web site along with bones,busks, grommets, lacing and bone casing tape.

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Corset Making Class in Ontario Canada

Linda Sparks of Farthingales will be teaching a hands-on corset making class in October, 2012. The class will run for two consecutive weekends and be held in Stratford, Ontario Canada at the "Off the Wall" studios. "Off the Wall" offers several different classes for the creativly inclined. If you're interested in a corset making class check out the link below....

Monday, April 16, 2012

Corset Chick Corset Review

 A corset by anyother name is still a corset....but are all things called corset the same.     By all definitions the garment in the image is a corset but there are many people (who if they were to handle it) might not agree.  Why not? because it's very light and does not appear very strong, it has minimal curves drafted in and is not going to make many women look much curvier than they already are.  So some would say this is not really a corset, but a corset fashion piece or a corset top. 
But it is a corset and it's the perfect corset for some women. The important thing is to know what you  are looking for - not what other people tell you to look for.

This is a super affordable corset and in my opinion it's remarkably well made for the price!  BUT you need to be aware of what you get for a "super affordable price". Otherwise you might be disapointed.                                                                                What do you get?     Well, from you get:   a well constructed corset made from a fashion fabric that appears to have been well fused to a strong foundation - no flimsy fabric.  The corset bone casing are secure and straight - no fraying seams either. Bindings are neatly finished.  For this price range this is the best corset I've seen.                                                                   What don't you get?    Let's be realistic you're not going to get eveything for this price.  You don't get steel bones, at least they don't feel like steel as they are very soft and there is not a lot of support and the bones will likely not withstand much wear before getting bent out of shape (depending on your body). You don't get double bones down the center back - there is one but not on the stress side of the grommets - so there is some risk of grommets popping if you lace too tight. You don't get a stong busk - the busk bends easily.
So what do you want with a corset like this - a fun evening - either out with friends or in with a special friend!  This is not a daily wear corset and it's not a body changing corset. Got a party coming up? - on a tight budget? this is a great option. It's well made so it will look good. BUT, be sure to get the right size as this corset is NOT for cinching down.                                                                           I 've seen what some of you try to do :-).

If you're wanting to wear a corset daily or to trim a few inches off your waist this is not the corset for you. So determine what you want from your corset. Knowing what you want will help you find the right one.                         See more fashion corsets from

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Silver Spiral Bones

Okay, no they are not made of silver but they do look it!  In fact they are coated with Zinc which means they're light in colour and don't shed the grey dust that many spiral bones do.                    This means they're a great option for use in wedding dresses because you won't see the shaded lines where the bones rest below the fabric and your fabric and hands won't get dirty when you insert them.                                                     These bones are currently only available in 10mm or approximately 3/8" wide and in a small selection of lengths.
They're wider than some spiral bones, and stronger so they offer more support but they are still flexible for comfort and to enhance curves on those voluptuous women whose experience has been that spirals don't work.  These NEW bones are worth checking out at          

Monday, April 9, 2012

1856-1889 Hoops and Bustles



Laughing Moon Mercantile Hoops and Bustles 1856-1889 for Civil War, Victorian, Dickens, Science Fiction and Bridal.

Pattern includes sizes 4 - 36! waist 22"(56cm) to 50"(127cm). All of the hoops and bustles in this pattern have been researched and are copies of period hoops and bustles and all with the exception of view F require steel.


  • View A is a bell shaped hoop suitable for 1856-1863 and 1869-1876
  • View B is an elliptical hoop for 1863-1871
  • View C is a bustle train supporter 1869-1876 and 1883-1889
  • View D and E are bustles for 1883-1889
  • View F is a basic bustle pad common throughtout the 19th century

Click Here for our hoop steel page and to see our hoop connectors and "tips" for tipping hoop steel for bustle making.  If you want a hoop skirt or bustle of this type  it's best to use  good quality spring steel - hoop steel. Hoop steel made of spring steel is the best because it doesn't get bent out of shape easily so you can sit down without worries - it collapses under you and then springs back into shape when you stand up!

The bustle and train supporter (view C) caught my attention and I could not wait to get started on it.
I wanted mine to clearly illustrate all that was happening in this amazingly shaped garment so I chose to use striped fabric and highly contrasting bias on the outside rather than on the inside of the garment. The pattern instructions tell you to sew the casing on the inside which is better but would not have been obvious in these pictures.

laughingmoonbustlemine1121243.jpg laughingmoonbustlemine21121242.jpg
A lack of legs on the dress form means the bustle tips forward at the bottom. Legs and the inner panel stop this tilting on a person.
This bustle and train supporter was not difficult to make as the instructions were clear and well illustrated. I did however find that I needed to change one thing and that was due to fit and could be because I am shorter than average - it was not a big deal or a problem. There is internal or hidden structure to this bustle (and to most others). This internal structure consists of simple panels that rest across the bum and across the calves.
I found the upper panel, the one that rests against the bum, to be too large. Even when it is laced tight as in the photo it did not pull the bustle shape to where it would suit me... or my taste. I have narrow hips and this could be the issue. Were I to make this for myself again I would scale down the top panels. I also found that I needed to move the lower panel that is at calf level. The pattern instructions indicated that this panel be attached further to the inner curve of the bustle but I found it bounced off my calves too much when I walked - this may not have happened if I had a skirt over it to add weight. I moved the panel to the front edge of the bustle and preferred the balance this gave.
These comments are not to say there are problems with the pattern. You should probably follow the instructions given with the pattern especially if you are wearing a skirt with a train. I've made these comments so you understand that you may need to make some minor alterations to suit your purposes, and that altering this pattern was quite easy.

Friday, April 6, 2012

How to Use Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

How to Apply Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

It's best to first explain what alternating hook and eye tape is. Typically, you can buy hook tape and eye tape at most fabric stores. One of the tapes has hooks on it and the other tape has eyes on it, usually these hooks and eyes are sewn into the tapes. With alternating hook and eye tape. The hooks and the eyes are riveted to a single tape and they alternate in placement of hook followed by an eye followed by a hook followed by an eye and so on.

The advantage of alternating hook and eye tape is that once the hook and eye tape is done up it is very difficult for it to come undone without effort. Standard hook and I tapes come undone fairly easily. Alternating hook & tape are an advantage in the back of dance costumes, because no matter what motion the dancer does, there is limited to no risk of the hooks and eyes coming undone.

The image on the below shows two rows of alternating hook and eye tape.
The hooks and eyes are fairly substantial corset hooks and corset eyes that are riveted on to a stiff twill tape.

Notice how each twill tape has a hook and then an eye in alternating sequence.

Be sure to confirm how the hooks and eyes line up before you cut the tape! A hook needs to be opposite an eye. If you’re not careful you can end up with the problem below.

Keep in mind it's also very difficult to undo a garment you're wearing yourself if you have used alternating hook and eye tape. Not easy to get into or get out of, but sometimes this is a good or even important detail.

When using hook and eye tape it is important that the hooks and eyes close in a manner that does not allow the skin to be visible between the two edges of fabric. If the tapes were sewn to the edge of the fabric you would get a gap between the edges of the fabric as indicated in the image below.

“right side”                                    “wrong side”


Fold and press your fabrics along the “center front” line (or the “center back” if you are applying the hook and eye tape to the backs). It is important to press this fold. Once the hook and eye tapes are sewn on, it will not be possible to press this edge.


Using a narrow foot on your machine (likely a zipper foot), check that the foot will fit inbetween the hook and the eye on the tape.


Open the pressed fabric edge up and align the hooks and eyes of the tape, with the fold line that indicates “center front”. Using a pencil or pen mark the center point between each hook and eye both on the tape and on the fabric. You’ll use these lines to confirm placement of the tape so mark carefully and be sure the tape does not cover the marks you make on the fabric.

Stitch each of these short lines between every hook and every eye. Sewing only through the tape and the single layer of fabric. Stitch from the raw edge to the fold mark and back so that each row is double stitched.


Fold the raw ends of the tape under and stitch in the same way unless the tape will go all the way to the end of the fabric and will get bound off with it.

Refold the fabric along the “center front” (or “center back”) line. Pin along the fold to make sure the fabrics stay in place. Stitch close to the riveted edge of the hooks and eyes, stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric. This will create a bone casing that allows you to slide a bone behind the hooks and eyes for further support…it does increase the challenge of getting the hooks and eyes done-up and un-done.

If you have no need or interest in creating a bone casing stitch the tape to only one layer of fabric at this point by not folding the fabric along the “center front” line.

The following steps do not include a bone casing.

The fabric was not folded back into place and the long row of stitching to secure the tape to the fabric was sewn through the tape and one layer of fabric only.


Now fold the fabric into place along the “center front” line, pin along the fold and stitch a second row of stitching along the edge of the tape. Stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric.


Attach the hook and eye tape for the other side onto the “sewn on” hook and eye tape. This will determine the placement of the second tape on the other piece of fabric. Slide the other piece of fabric into place so that the folded edges of the “center front” or “center back” butt snuggly against each other. Mark the tape and the fabric as outlined above.


hookandeye11markingsecondside800x600.jpg hookandeye12thesecondsidemarked800x600.jpg

Stitch the tape to the fabric in the same way as outlined above. BUT, notice that the placement of the hook and eye tape on the fabric may not be the same. I prefer the opening not to be centered over the bar of the eyes.


View from the inside

View from the outside
hookandeye15rightsidefinished600x800.jpg hookandeye9rightside800x600.jpg


If you want to try "Alternating Hook and Eye Tape" go to and look in the "Buy Corset Supplies" section

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Latice Corset

I made this corset with a ribbon corset in mind, but I wanted the full coverage of an overbust corset.  I love the look of ribbon corsets - they're feminine and pretty. There's a few things I'll do differently next time to refine the look but I'm fairly happy with how this turned out.                                      I used just one layer of fabric.The fabric is coutil - "bzy floral" coutil in cream. I used mostly spiral bones but did put spring steels down the center back. The busk has gold colour knobs and loops and the grommets down the back match; they're brass. Amazingly I was able to find flat lacing ribbon that matched the coutil to lace the corset up. All of the materials came from except the wide pinky ribbon

 To add a bit of interest to the wide pink ribbon I did some machine embroidery using a vine like specialty stitch that my machine happened to have. I just used ordinary thread that matched the coutil.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Coutil, Bra Cups and Links of Interest

Farthingales has seen a few new products arrive since Christmas

·         Coutil – 5 new qualities; black w red dots has been seriously poplar, black w red roses, pale blue grey herringbone coutil and a pale blue grey matte satin coutil as well as a pale lavender rose brocade coutil (we only have half of a bolt left!)  It you’re interested in coutil you’ll want to check these out and if you have not already ordered a swatch pack of coutil – you might want to. Great item to have on hand if only for inspiration.

·         Bra cups – so far just one style in two sizes and in both black and beige. They’ve got a little built in “cushion” to help give a bit of lift. I put them into some corsets between the fashion fabric and coutil layer – no one knows they’re there but they can make quite a difference.

We’re looking into “boning in a casing”…but not the type you can buy almost anywhere. We’re looking at having our incredible German Plastic boning put into a casing so that you can get the superior boning already in a casing for quick application.  What do you think? Is this of interest? Yes, no, maybe? Click the voting button.

I regularly post pics and information on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter and on the Farthingales Blog. I post about new product, techniques and projects so any one of these may be of interest.

Check any of them or all of them out.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

"Truly Victorian" created an Edwardian Corset Pattern and this is my project using the pattern.

tvedwardian1600x800.jpg tvedwardiancorset7512x800.jpg
The Truly Victorian “Edwardian” corset pattern is based on historical research on corsets of 1903. It has a low full bust and long hip and creates the “Pigeon Breast” look popular at the time. It does not lend its self well to modern interpretation for fashion. To get this look there is padding required and the patterns for both bum padding and breast padding are included.

The pattern envelope includes pattern pieces for the corset that will fit a chest from 32” to 58”, a waist of 19” – 45” and hip from 32” to 58” as well as bust and hip pad pattern to help create the correct silhouette.

I made this one from “diamond” coutil in a flesh tone and I embellished it with fancy stitches in pale turquoise. It does not fit my mannequin well but I love the shape.

tvedwardiancorset4600x800.jpg tvedwardiancorset2600x800.jpg tvedwardiancorset3600x800.jpg

The sizing of this pattern is unique and I really like the method that Truly Victorian has used; numbers are not used to indicate size, letters are. This means there is no confusion between the “size” of the pattern and the “size” we wear from a retail store AND we can escape the stress that numbers can cause when we think we wear a size 12 but need a size 20 pattern. The size I’ve made is “G”, which according to the chart is for a 32” waist.

I glued the pattern to card stock – something I always do, then cut along the lines indicated for a size “G”. The lines are clearly indicated and the pattern is very professional looking – I almost didn’t want to cut into it because it looked so flawless.

Instructions for this pattern are not extensive but it is not a hard corset to make. I opted not to include a lining and to use just one layer of coutil, I chose a flesh tone diamond brocade coutil.

I embellished the hip gore pieces before sewing them into the corset and I embellished the center backs before putting them together but all the other embellishing occurred after the pieces were put together. Some of my embellishment was as simple as top stitching in a contrast colour.

I used flesh colour bone casing tape to cover the raw seams and used bias strips of the “diamond” coutil to bind the top and bottom edges. I’d been a bit concerned that the coutil bias would be too thick and hard to manage but it worked beautifully and easily.  The links below should take you to the web page where the items are sold - the pattern is also sold on the web site - I just somehow missed listing it.

I made a size “G” which is pretty much the middle of the sizes and I required the following items:
Item Quantity Product# Link to catlog
13" busk 1 pair 91-8550-13 Busks
coutil 1.2 m 74-1130-20 Coutil
lacing 6m 18-7178-04 Lacing
bone casing 1/2" 5m 34-7212-20 Bone Casing
grommets size oo 30 60-8820N-kit Grommet Kits
spring steel bones 36cm 2 50-8308-36 Spring Steel Bones
spring steel bones 34cm 4 50-8308-34
spring steel bones 32cm 4 50-8308-32
spring steel bones 35cm 4 50-8308-35
spring steel bones 33cm 2 50-8308-33

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Grommets vs. Eyelets

"What is the difference between Grommets and Eyelets?"

Well, that depends on the grommets and the eyelets you are comparing. They are basically the same thing. Some people say that eyelets don't have washers but that's not a fact of all eyelets...only of some brands.

Grommets and eyelets at typically made of some type of metal (though plastic do exist), they're typically a circular short tube with a "flange" (flat end). 

sheyelet.jpg I use them primarily for the back of corsets, they strengthen the holes that the lacing goes through. The tube of the grommet or eyelet goes through the hole from the "right side of the fabric", so you'll see the flange on the outside of the garment. 

A washer looks a bit like the "flange" of the grommet or eyelet but without the tube. The washer goes on the "wrong side" of the fabric or on the "inside" of the garment. The washer keeps the grommet or eyelet secure during lacing and inhibits the grommet or eyelet pulling out of the fabric. Using fusible interfacing on the "wrong side" of the fabric also helps. Washers should always be used with grommets and eyelets unless the grommet and eyelet are just decorative.

Grommets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour) and matte black (gunmetal). washers are included and match the colour of the grommet.

Eyelets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour), antique brass, shiny black (made of aluminum), white (made of aluminum) and matte silver (aluminum).  Washers are sold separately and are matte silver (aluminum). Aluminum does not corode when exposed to persperation which makes it a great choice for corsets that are worn alot or exposed to other moister.

It's important to note that grommets and eyelets are not universal in size. Meaning not all grommets listed as size #00 can be set with the same grommet setter. You need to have the grommet setter that was designed and engineered to set the grommet brand you have otherwise you risk a poorly set grommet or worse...a grommet stuck onto your grommet setter, which means your garment is stuck on to!

Setting Grommets a.k.a. Eyelets

Eyelet Setting Instructions

(These instructions are included with the Eyelet Setting Kit #54-8600-kit)

Hammer Setting Eyelets

If you have ever set grommets using a Hammer Setter you will notice that the Eyelet Setter appears to be missing a piece; the base. We actually did call the manufacturer to confirm that all the pieces are here and they insisted there was no base piece to be had.

  1. Make the hole using item #54-8600-cutr and a rubber or rawhide mallet.
  2. Take the eyelet and push the shank into the hole until the eyelet is in place.
  3. Place the eyelet on a solid, hard surface, the floor is best. Your fabric will be on top facing the ceiling with the eyelet underneath, almost hidden from view.
  4. Take a washer and place it over the shank of the eyelet, the eyelet and washer will be shank to shank.
    Press gently until the washer is stable.
  5. Center the Eyelet Setter (#54-8600-set) over the washer hole, the shaped end should fit neatly into the hole of the washer.
  6. Hold the Eyelet Setter steady and bang a few times with the rubber mallet.
    Remove the Eyelet Setter and you are done.

NOTE: If the surface you are working on is not hard the eyelet may not set evenly and you will end up with little eyelet indentations in the surface of your table.

ALWAYS test the process on scrap first.


Eyelet Setting by Machine

Click here for "How to Use the Eyelet Setting Machine"

Grommet Setting Instructions

Using hammer set style tools; kit # 60-8810-kit (for #0 size grommets) or #54-8800-kit (for #00 size grommets).

You must have a rubber or rawhide mallet.

  1. Punch a hole in your fabric using the "hole punch" and rubber mallet.
  2. Place the grommet on the setting base, it should fit neatly in place.
  3. Place you fabric on top of the grommet, being sure that the grommet shaft is coming up through the hole in the fabric.
  4. Take the washer and slip it over the grommet shank, curved side upwards.
  5. Center the setting tool with it’s "nose" going through the holes in washer grommet and base.
  6. Strike with the rubber mallet two or three times
  7. Check the set of the grommet, re-position and strike again if needed.


You cannot remove grommets once they are set or even partially set so be careful.

Grommet Setting

Basic Grommet Setting Tips

  1. Always test your setting technique on scrap of the same fabric and same number of layers.
  2. When hammer setting, always work on a stable surface which will not flex with the pounding of the hammer. The floor is the best surface but can be awkward.
  3. Work slowly and carefully. It is impossible to "unset" a grommet.
  4. The grommet goes on the "right side" or "outside" of the garment and the washer goes on the inside.
  5. Always use a washer!
  6. Only use rubber or rawhide mallets.


Grommet Machines

The grommet machine sets grommets perfectly and with ease. It is however quite large and not to be considered a mobile unit. It requires three screws (not included) in order to be mounted onto a table. As it functions on the principle of leverage it must be mounted on a table in order to work effectively.

The machine and the dies for setting the grommets are sold separately. We stock only size #00 dies but other sizes are available by "Special Order"



A) By Machine

1. Punch hole in fabric
2. Place the washer over the spike in the bottom die. It is slightly concave on one side and this side should face upward. Pretend it has to hold a drop of water.
3. Fit the grommet through the hole in the fabric. Place the grommet and fabric onto the spike of the lower die, fabric side down.
4. Slowly pull the lever down so that the grommet sets evenly.

    B) With Pliers

    1. Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch. Use rubber mallet.
    2. Place grommet through hole in fabric.
    3. Pliers should be in your hand with the longest center "probe" coming up from the bottom jaw.
    4. Place the fabric and grommet on this with the grommet against the jaw, the fabric upper most and the probe through the grommet hole.
    5. Slowly squeeze the pliers shut to attain an even set.
    NOTE: We have found that the shank of grommet is not always long enough on this kit and that a rough finish can result. This could be uncomfortable next to the skin and a placket may be required to finish the garment.

    C) With Hammer Punch Tool

    Hammer Setting Kits require a rubber or rawhide hammer which is NOT included.
    1. Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch.
    2. Place grommet through the hole in the fabric.
    3. Place grommet and fabric, with grommet on bottom, onto the round metal disk. Grommet should rest in the circular groove found on the top of the disk.
    1. Place washer over grommet with fabric in between.
    2. Place the steel setting tool over the washer with the "probe" entering the grommet and washer hole.
    1. Be sure all pieces are in place and hammer 3-4 times.

    Grommets can be purchased at