Corset Pattern for 1870-1895 Corset

A few months ago I made the Mantua Maker pattern for a 1880's corset. These are some details I incorporated.                                           I used only one layer of coutil - "diamond coutil" #74-1130-20 and white bone casing tape (thre is a beig one that mathces the coutil, but I wanted my casings to be very obvious.                       This is an interior view of the back, the rust colour is pre-packaged bias that I used to bind the raw edge of the back facing. Notice the two bones on either side of the grommets and close to them.

The top and bottom edges of the corset were also bound with the purchased bias tape and - hard to see here - the seams were top-stitched in rust thread to match.                                                      A single layer of coutil makes for a strong yet thin corset which creates and holds the desired shape without adding bulk. This "diamond" coutil is one of the strongest coutils and is very tightly woven.                                                                                       Sometimes simplicity is beauty.                                                                                                                                                                                          The finished corset has simple lines and has been finished with minimal decoration. 

To find our more about this pattern visit our web site www.farthingales.on.ca and visit the Tips n Tricks section for more information or go directly to the "Buy Corset Supplies" section and check the list for "patterns".  You'll also find this coutil and many others on our web site along with bones,busks, grommets, lacing and bone casing tape.

"Truly Victorian" created an Edwardian Corset Pattern and this is my project using the pattern.


The Truly Victorian “Edwardian” corset pattern is based on historical research on corsets of 1903. It has a low full bust and long hip and creates the “Pigeon Breast” look popular at the time. It does not lend its self well to modern interpretation for fashion. To get this look there is padding required and the patterns for both bum padding and breast padding are included.

The pattern envelope includes pattern pieces for the corset that will fit a chest from 32” to 58”, a waist of 19” – 45” and hip from 32” to 58” as well as bust and hip pad pattern to help create the correct silhouette.

I made this one from “diamond” coutil in a flesh tone and I embellished it with fancy stitches in pale turquoise. It does not fit my mannequin well but I love the shape.





The sizing of this pattern is unique and I really like the method that Truly Victorian has used; numbers are not used to indicate size, letters are. This means there is no confusion between the “size” of the pattern and the “size” we wear from a retail store AND we can escape the stress that numbers can cause when we think we wear a size 12 but need a size 20 pattern. The size I’ve made is “G”, which according to the chart is for a 32” waist.

I glued the pattern to card stock – something I always do, then cut along the lines indicated for a size “G”. The lines are clearly indicated and the pattern is very professional looking – I almost didn’t want to cut into it because it looked so flawless.

Instructions for this pattern are not extensive but it is not a hard corset to make. I opted not to include a lining and to use just one layer of coutil, I chose a flesh tone diamond brocade coutil.

I embellished the hip gore pieces before sewing them into the corset and I embellished the center backs before putting them together but all the other embellishing occurred after the pieces were put together. Some of my embellishment was as simple as top stitching in a contrast colour.

I used flesh colour bone casing tape to cover the raw seams and used bias strips of the “diamond” coutil to bind the top and bottom edges. I’d been a bit concerned that the coutil bias would be too thick and hard to manage but it worked beautifully and easily.  The links below should take you to the web page where the items are sold - the pattern is also sold on the web site - I just somehow missed listing it. www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

I made a size “G” which is pretty much the middle of the sizes and I required the following items:
 

Item	Quantity	Product#	Link to catlog
13" busk	1 pair	91-8550-13	Busks
coutil	1.2 m	74-1130-20	Coutil
lacing	6m	18-7178-04	Lacing
bone casing 1/2"	5m	34-7212-20	Bone Casing
grommets size oo	30	60-8820N-kit	Grommet Kits
spring steel bones 36cm	2	50-8308-36	Spring Steel Bones
spring steel bones 34cm	4	50-8308-34
spring steel bones 32cm	4	50-8308-32
spring steel bones 35cm	4	50-8308-35
spring steel bones 33cm	2	50-8308-33