New Website

It's amazing how complicated the internet can be. How many "accounts" I have and how many passwords!!! I have Facebook, Twitter and Google+ and ...this blog, as well as a website and I can't seem to keep on top of it all and get anything else done.

But, there is some important news.

Farthingales has a new website and....I built it myself, despite having no web building experience and not really being that computer savy. I'd much rather handle tangible materials like coutil and corset bones! It's been almost a year since I plotted the plan for the new website using "publisher" and figured out all the links and levels AND it's bee one hell of journey - truly, it was like being in hell at times, trying to figure it all out and failing. However the new site is now live - has been for a few weeks and most kinks have been worked out. So I'm hoping you'll all go take a peak.

www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

Same URL as before.

Keep in mind - if you had an account on the old site - you'll have one here. HOWEVER we could not move your passwords due to security, so you need to enter your e-mail address and click "Forgot Password" and a new temporary password will be sent to you. Use it to sign-in and create a new password that you'll remember or ...add Farthingales to your address book and put the new password in the "notes" section.

I hope you'll check the new website out soon and give me some feedback.

Waist Cincher Corset is finished

The fabric used for this waist cincher corset is "spot broche" coutil also known as "dot coutil". It's the most durable of all coutil and I've opted to use it without any fashion fabric as it's very pretty as it is.  The bone casings are on the inside of the corset and I've bound the seam allowances to create some of them. Doing so meant there was no need for a lining. So this corset is made from just one layer of seriously strong fabric - dot coutil. Note the little pocket I added - it may seem too tiny to be of much use but it's all I need to carry a folded up bill or change.

 

I used decorative stitching to indicate some corset bone placements.  I edge stitched the seams in a contrast colour; more for a design detail than any necessity and I used a decorative stitch to secure the top binding of Petersham ribbon. The bottom edge was bound in the same Spot coutil the corset was made from. 

 

Instead of grommets I used black D-rings set w black rivets down the center back and lace the corset with nylon flat braid black lacing. The back includes a modesty panel made from the spot coutil.

All materials used can be found on the

Farthingales Corset Making Supplies web site

www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

Corset Project - Black corset w grey dots.

Two new coutil fabrics came in a few weeks ago and I've got an event coming up in October (the Creativ Festival) that I'd like a new corset for.  I had settled on a black and grey herringbone suiting that I could make into a waist cincher using the new black coutil with grey dots (spot broche coutil) as the the foundation.  When it came time to cut the fabrics out I decided I didn't want to hide the coutil! So I'm making a long-line under-bust corset using the black coutil with grey dots and I'll wear it with a black skirt and black blouse.

Here is where I've got to so far.

The busk looks silver but it's actually black metallic and I created a placket behind it to protect my skin or at lease keep my blouse from getting caught between the two fronts.

 

 



 

I like to have a pocket on my corsets so I have some place to put my lunch money and don't have to carry a purse so I added one and incorporated it into decorative stitching.  You can see it in the curved row of stitches. 

 

 

I rarely line my corsets though I did think about doing it on this one but most corsets I make end up getting looked at by students so it makes more sense to keep the inside lining free and all the details visible. A well made corset is just as neat inside as out so a lining is really not needed. I opted to use contrasting thread to sew the bones casings on but I did not use the contrasting thread on the outside of the corset as it seemed like it would make it too busy since there was already decorative stitching.

 



 

 

 

 

I'm busy working on another project so this is what I'm doing when I need a break. I'll post more as I get it done.

 

 

All products are from www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

This particular coutil known as "spot broche", "dot coutil" and "spot coutil" is available in several colour combinations and is the ultimate in durability. It's used by theatres all over the world because it's easy to work with and corsets made from it last!



 

 

 

 

Dyeing Coutil and Corset Laces

Just to experiment I tried dying some coutil and the two new Farthingales corset laces and here is the result.

I used Dylon Violet dye and worked in a pot on my stove stop as I was just dyeing sample lengths. The instructions that came with the dye were very easy to follow.

I put all the pieces into the pot at the same and they all stayed in the pot for a full 20 minutes.


Item number 88-71WC-01 is white cotton corset lacing with a waxed finish. I assumed this product would not dye evenly because the of the finish but in fact it took the dye fastest and deepest; the finish must have completely dissolved. Unfortunately once the finish was gone the lace increased in width; it started at 1/4" wide and ended up at 3/8" wide. But the colour is intense.

Item number 01-7671N-01 is white nylon braid corset lacing. It did not take the dye as quickly but it did take the colour equally intensely and the dyeing did not noticeably alter the size or feel of the corset lacing. The nylon corset lacing had a beautiful sheen before it was dyed and after.    

Coutil is only available in a limited number of colours and patterns but it's all either 100% cotton or a cotton viscose blend so I expected some success with dyeing. Some coutil has a finish applied to it that may effect how evenly the coutil takes dye but  none of the pieces I tested were a problem. The one I was most interested in experimenting with was the new rose brocade coutil that is black with "champaign" roses item #74-1148-92. I was hoping that the roses would turn deep purple and they might have if I left the sample in the dye-pot longer. While I didn't get the deep purple I had hoped for, I was not disappointed with the result...the pale lavender roses on a black background is quite stunning and I actually like it better than if they had gone deep purple. The photo does not do the fabric justice!

I also added satin coutil and a satin brocade coutil to the mix and got fantastic results for both. The plain satin; item 74-1150-01 and the satin/brocade known as bzy floral coutil #74-1158-01 took the dye well and ended up a perfect match with each other and the with the nylon lacing!

While I can't image when I'm going to get a chance to dye more fabric and make a new corset I am definitely inspired to find time soon.

The last piece I tested was a cotton viscose brocade coutil 74-1130-20 "diamond brocade". It started out beige but ended up the same shade of deep purple as the satin, however it got rolled up in the pot and only the edges were exposed to enough dye to colour it so I'm not sure about it's success. I suspect it would dye well provided it was all equally exposed.

You can find more information on the over 20 coutil patterns and colours that are available by going to:

 

https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Coutil-Corset-fabric-s/1818.htm





Making a Mesh Corset

There's been a lot of chat lately about "mesh corsets", likely because it's been so hot just about everywhere. Farthingales sells several types of net and mesh so I thought I try my hand at making a mesh corset. I started by choosing a mesh and decided on the one that has the smallest holes - why? because a corset is tight and who wants to have flesh  squeezed through hundreds of little holes! It would make for a very uncomfortable and likely itchy corset experience.

So I chose item #24-5550-90a very fine nylon mesh (it is not elastic or stretchy). I decided to not use any coutil so the front and back panels are two layers of the mesh, this meant the corset busk would be visible if I used a white one, so I opted for a 10 " black busk #15-85BL-10. To encase the bones I chose black bone casing tape 74-3412-90 and black eyelets for the back. I bound the top and bottom edges with black bias binding...next time I'll use Petersham as the mesh looks really nice and the bias just isn't quite as nice a finish.


This is the result so far:

The corset front panels w the busk sew in. Despite the fabric being mesh the main part of the busk is not visible because it to is black. Only the knobs and loops are visible as they are exposed and they're a black metallic.







This is the left side of the corset as it rests on a white surface, you can see how fine the mesh is, there is no way any flesh can get squeezed through this. It surprisingly strong! I did set eyelets down the center back and they seem quite secure (they are set in 4 layers of mesh when the seam allowance is included).

 The corset on a mannequin - unfortunately all of my "squishy: mannequins are covered in black so the corset would not show on them. This mannequin is a hard body one and while the corset does fit fairly accurately is does not allow for the waist cinching effect, but you can see what the corset looks like.

I expect to get someone in next week to try it on so I can get pictures of it in on a human

All supplies for this mesh corset project are available from

www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

direct link to the Mesh page

https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Corset-Mesh-p/24-5550.htm

New Coutil

Coutil is the ultimate fabric for making corsets; it's not inclined to stretch, it's durable and it's attractive! Theatre's don't just use it for corsets - they use it as the under-structure for gown bodices of many time periods because it holds the shape well and encases bones safely. Ballet  and Opera companies also use it as durability is important.

While coutil is extremely functional don't assume it can't be pretty!  The images below are two new coutil patterns that are now stocked at Farthingales. The just arrived today and they are worth looking at.

The newest addition to the Rose patterned brocade coutil is black with a champagne coloured rose. Farthingales has this same rose patterned brocade coutil in other colours; white on white, beige on beige, black on black, red on black (really stunning) and pale pink. A cotton rayon blend means the rose pattern on this coutil has a subtle sheen against the matte background.

 

 

The "dot coutil" or "spot coutil" is the most popular among theatres because while it is a little pricey it's incredibly durable and easy to work with. The newest addition to this coutil pattern is black with a pale silvery grey dot. This fabric offers awesome support all on it's own. Other colour options for this "dot coutil" are: white on white, black on black, pink on cream and red on black.

 

 

The Rose Brocade Coutil and Spot Coutil are not the only coutil fabrics available. Farthingales Corset Making Supplies had over 25 colour/pattern options to choose from so you can co-ordinate your coutil with a fashion fabric or use it alone and still get a very fashionable garment.

 

To see the whole selection of coutil patterns and colours visit:

http://farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/products.php?cat=coutil

 

 

Black coutil Underbust Corset

The black under-bust corset that I worked on last week is now finished!

It's pretty tiny as it's size 20 and it does not fit any of my dress forms so the shape is not illustrated well here. It's a very curvy piece of work.

 

The busk may look silver but it's actually black metallic. Red stitching and heat seat crystals embellish one set of bone casings.

 

 

The image below shows one side ( the left) of the corset. You can easily see the curve built in to accommodate hips. The back has minimal embellishment since I felt I'd overdone it a bit with the crystals on the front.

 

The side seams have exterior bone casings covered with the same Petersham ribbon that was used to bind the top and bottom edges. I love working with contrasting thread to make design details like that below.

This is corset is ultra strong being made of 2 layers of coutil. The black spot coutil is on the outside and red spot coutil is on the inside...yes, it looks like it could be worn inside out but it might be a challenge to get the busk done up!

 

 

The coutil, busk, bones and Petersham

all came from www.farthingalescorstmakingsupplies.com

 

To see more of our projects  visit our Facebook page

www.facebook.com/farthingales

and look a the photo album

Two New Coutil Patterns at Farthingales

Farthingales Corset Making Supply will soon be adding to their already extensive selection of coutil.

Currently they stock around 25 different coutil fabrics that range from the most basic herring bone weaves to satin, tiny dots and various brocade patterns. The two new coutil fabrics are due to arrive by early August and while they are not new patterns they are new colour combinations.

 

The "Spot Coutil" is an incredibly durable coutil, very dense and very easy to work with; it's a favorite of several theatres.  The new colour is black with tiny charcoal dots; the black is a matte satin weave and the dots are a shiny satin.

 

 

The "Rose Brocade Coutil" has been very popular in all the colour variations that Farthingales offers and the new one is matte black with shiny "champagne" coloured roses! Evening wear designers have been buying it to use as a foundation for strapless bodices.

 

Both of these coutil fabrics are cotton viscose blends.

 

More coutil fabric can be found on the Farthingales web site

http://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/coutil.php

Check out the whole selection!

 

Farthingales Summer Fashion Shoot



Farthingales worked with Grafische Photography and some awesomely fun models to create some images of corsets that were built at Farthingales using Farthingales products.   The image to the left is of a "waist cincher" corset and an "over bust" corset.                The over bust is made of two layers of coutil and a mix of both spiral steel bones and spring steel bones. It was inspired by a late 1800's corset.  The waist cincher corset was made with one layer of coutil and silk peau du soie, it also has a mix of bones and was inspired by a 1900's waist cincher. Both corsets have a busk.                                                   

The image to the right is of a reproduction 1800's corset. I bought the vintage piece at a Flea Market and copied the pattern. It's made of a single layer of fabric; matte satin coutil in beige. Beige bone casing tape was used to hold the bones which were a mix of spiral bones and spring steel bones. The corset has been trimmed with blue Petersham ribbon, cotton eyelet and blue thread embroidery. A busk is used to close the center front.


All corsets displayed on this blog are made using only Farthingales Corset Making Supplies  If you have any interest in corset making or costuming check out the web page and look for the Tips n Tricks section for more info.



If you'll be in Toronto October 12,13,14 2012 come see our booth at the Creativ Festival

Corset Pattern for 1870-1895 Corset

A few months ago I made the Mantua Maker pattern for a 1880's corset. These are some details I incorporated.                                           I used only one layer of coutil - "diamond coutil" #74-1130-20 and white bone casing tape (thre is a beig one that mathces the coutil, but I wanted my casings to be very obvious.                       This is an interior view of the back, the rust colour is pre-packaged bias that I used to bind the raw edge of the back facing. Notice the two bones on either side of the grommets and close to them.

The top and bottom edges of the corset were also bound with the purchased bias tape and - hard to see here - the seams were top-stitched in rust thread to match.                                                      A single layer of coutil makes for a strong yet thin corset which creates and holds the desired shape without adding bulk. This "diamond" coutil is one of the strongest coutils and is very tightly woven.                                                                                       Sometimes simplicity is beauty.                                                                                                                                                                                          The finished corset has simple lines and has been finished with minimal decoration. 

To find our more about this pattern visit our web site www.farthingales.on.ca and visit the Tips n Tricks section for more information or go directly to the "Buy Corset Supplies" section and check the list for "patterns".  You'll also find this coutil and many others on our web site along with bones,busks, grommets, lacing and bone casing tape.

Latice Corset

I made this corset with a ribbon corset in mind, but I wanted the full coverage of an overbust corset.  I love the look of ribbon corsets - they're feminine and pretty. There's a few things I'll do differently next time to refine the look but I'm fairly happy with how this turned out.                                      I used just one layer of fabric.The fabric is coutil - "bzy floral" coutil in cream. I used mostly spiral bones but did put spring steels down the center back. The busk has gold colour knobs and loops and the grommets down the back match; they're brass. Amazingly I was able to find flat lacing ribbon that matched the coutil to lace the corset up. All of the materials came from www.farthingales.on.ca except the wide pinky ribbon

 To add a bit of interest to the wide pink ribbon I did some machine embroidery using a vine like specialty stitch that my machine happened to have. I just used ordinary thread that matched the coutil.

Coutil, Bra Cups and Links of Interest

Farthingales has seen a few new products arrive since Christmas

·         Coutil – 5 new qualities; black w red dots has been seriously poplar, black w red roses, pale blue grey herringbone coutil and a pale blue grey matte satin coutil as well as a pale lavender rose brocade coutil (we only have half of a bolt left!)  It you’re interested in coutil you’ll want to check these out and if you have not already ordered a swatch pack of coutil – you might want to. Great item to have on hand if only for inspiration.  http://www.farthingales.on.ca/products.php?cat=coutil

·         Bra cups – so far just one style in two sizes and in both black and beige. They’ve got a little built in “cushion” to help give a bit of lift. I put them into some corsets between the fashion fabric and coutil layer – no one knows they’re there but they can make quite a difference. http://www.farthingales.on.ca/products.php?cat=pads

We’re looking into “boning in a casing”…but not the type you can buy almost anywhere. We’re looking at having our incredible German Plastic boning put into a casing so that you can get the superior boning already in a casing for quick application.  What do you think? Is this of interest? Yes, no, maybe? Click the voting button.

I regularly post pics and information on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter and on the Farthingales Blog. I post about new product, techniques and projects so any one of these may be of interest.

Check any of them or all of them out.

http://www.facebook.com/farthingalescorsets

http://www.farthingalescorsetblog.blogspot.com

http://www.Pinterset.com/farthingales

NEW COUTIL                                                                                        

There are 5 new qualities of Coutil at Farthingales!

Two are shown here; black with red dots (dot coutil is the strongest of all coutils and a favorite of many theatres for it's durability), black with red rose brocade coutil which we sold out of quickly the last time we had it (about 3 years ago). These two along with a lavendar rose brocade and two blue/grey coutils ( a herringbone coutil and a matte satin coutil) have limited amounts - we bought all the manufacturer had so if you're interested you may want to order soon. We don't know if or when we'll be able to get them again.

Farthingales now has close to 30 qualities of coutil. So it's worth
checking the website for the complete selection.
  www.farthingales.on.ca  Click the link for the Farthingales website and more coutil than you imagined existed. You can order a coutil swatch pack of all our coutils so you can feel the quality and see the real colours.

What is Coutil?

This is a question I often get so I'm going to answer it here "in a nutshell".

Coutil is a fabric that is engineered specifically for corset making. It can be a very fine herringbone weave but it can also be a brocade or a satin. What makes coutil coutil is ...a few things. Coutil has a high thread count, which means it's not inclined to stretch and bones are not likely to work holes through it. Coutil is not bulky, it's very fine and this coupled with it's strength make it the ultimate fabric for corset making and for the foundation of evening wear bodices. It is always made from natural fibers, either 100% cotton or a cotton viscose blend so it breathes and absorbs sweat.

 Beautiful brocade coutil means you can make a corset from one layer of fabric and it will be both strong and beautiful. Use a layer of herringbone coutil cut on the crossgrain for the lining and a layer of satin coutil or brocade coutil as the exterior layer and you'll have a corset strong enough for tight-lacing.

Theaters have learned the value of coutil - a well made corset can last for years with a little care when made from coutil. But...not all coutil is created equal and there are companies selling "coutil" at what may seem amazing prices. Be wary of great priced coutil - high thread count means more threads required and more labour to weave so good coutil is costly. Some companies assume that because a fabric has a herringbone weave it is coutil, but that is not the case.

Coutil is not just the perfect fabric for corset making it's also used for period boned bodices, doublet foundations, basques to mount multiple layers of net to for a skirt, bust flatteners; anything that requires strong durable and fine fabric.

Farthingales has an extensive selection of coutil - over 20 qualities and you can order a sample pack.