Corset Making Supplies

Corset Making Supplies
A corset can be worn in any way you imagine

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Working with Fosshape by Farthingales



Fosshape is a non-woven, heat-activated fabric. It feels like thick felt and is soft and flexible but with the use of heat and/or steam it can be formed and shaped into solid shapes.

It’s a great alternative to ''Buckram'' because it becomes it maintains its shape but remains breathable.
Fosshape activates in the range of 212° - 265° F (100° - 130° C). It can be painted ( I prefer spray paint as it can absorb a lot of paint and get heavy if the paint is brushed on).  Fosshape is surprisingly strong when set but is lightweight, which makes it a great option for masks and hats.

You can use a steam iron, vertical steamer or heat gun (I’ve had my best results with a vertical steamer from my local thrift shop). The Fosshape gets stiffer with more heat, time and pressure, so working with molds is advantageous but not and absolute need.

Being an experienced seamstress, I love the fact that Fosshape can be sewn and cuts easily with a scissors and, like felt it does not fray. Best of all it bonds to itself …and not your iron!



Instructions for Use


Cutting:  Use scissors or a matte knife.

Shrinkage:  Fosshape can shrink up to 30%...so cut your pieces larger than you need


Sewing:  You can sew Fosshape by machine or by hand. I prefer to use a machine zigzag stitch and butt the edges together, rather than sew a standard seam which would create more bulk – but it means being very careful when steaming or the seam can separate.

Forming:  You do need to support the shape – steam the Fosshape over something and use gloves to protect your fingers from the heat of the steam

Layering:  Fosshape will stick to itself when heat is applied, but will not stick to you or your iron. This characteristic allows it to be layered achieve the required rigidity. A steam iron pressing the Fosshape against a hard surface will create a very smooth hard surface that will look nothing like the felt it resembles prior to heat and pressure.

Heating:  Keep your heat source 6-12 inches away from the Fosshape surface to start, then slowly bringing it closer. Move the heat source around so it’s not foc back and forth to keep the shrinkage uniform. Let the item cool – while it’s warm if can still be shaped.

Decorating:  Fosshape can be painted - no primer needed- and it can be dyed dyed. Decoration may be stitched or glued on. 100% synthetic, it will hold up well in humidity or rainy conditions.

For more information see our free PDF downloadable book:




To look at or purchase Fosshape or Wonderflex click on the link below:


 









Sunday, January 28, 2018

McCall's Cosplay Pattern M2103 "Carpathia"

I ordered this McCall's Cosplay pattern on-line because my local fabric store didn't have one (and I could be wrong but I think maybe this is one that is only available on-line)and I was excited to see a neck corset pattern.

I was also excited to see that the floral fabric chosen for the pattern image, is one of the floral brocade coutil fabrics  that Farthingales sells. It's going to take a few months as I have many other commitments, but I plan to make both the corset and the collar. I'll be posting about my experience here, so this is Chapter One of my McCall's Carpathia story.

The first thing I want to say is that this is not a pattern for someone who has not sewn much or has little experience with sewing patterns, on the flip side this is a pleasant challenge for those who are experienced.

Having made many, many corsets and developed corset making techniques and taught corset making to several hundred people (I've also got a corset class on the on-line class platform "Craftsy") I see corset making as a more streamlined process than is outlined in the directions. I've read the instructions all the way through - (I strongly recommend that everyone do this and never assume you know how a pattern was planned to be put together.) and I've had a few thoughts:

  • when using coutil - you don't need interfacing to help stabilize or strengthen the fabric, so I skipped this step
  • they suggest 4 types of boning - I usually use two, but am not commenting on this until I get to the point of needing bones as it could be that I agree.
  • I rarely line a corset because my finishing technique leaves my corsets as clean and tidy on the inside as they are on the outside and...adding a lining adds time. I may find I have to add a lining to this one, though I'm hoping to avoid it. 
  • lacing tape is mentioned on the pattern back in the supplies section but it's not referred to in the instructions. Here's a link to show how it's used, hint: you need to be aware of where the grommets will be set. https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/kb_results.asp?ID=10
  • The method of busk application suggests you create the hole for the busk knobs and apply seam sealant. My experience indicates that you need to get the busk knobs in place before adding the sealant otherwise you may find your holes are to small to get the knob through. AND, if you are using coutil you may not even need the sealant.
Despite these minor personal issues I like the pattern style and am looking forward to working through it. At the moment I have all my pieces sewn together for each side, but have to stop for today.