How to Use Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

How to Apply Alternating Hook and Eye Tape

It's best to first explain what alternating hook and eye tape is. Typically, you can buy hook tape and eye tape at most fabric stores. One of the tapes has hooks on it and the other tape has eyes on it, usually these hooks and eyes are sewn into the tapes. With alternating hook and eye tape. The hooks and the eyes are riveted to a single tape and they alternate in placement of hook followed by an eye followed by a hook followed by an eye and so on.

The advantage of alternating hook and eye tape is that once the hook and eye tape is done up it is very difficult for it to come undone without effort. Standard hook and I tapes come undone fairly easily. Alternating hook & tape are an advantage in the back of dance costumes, because no matter what motion the dancer does, there is limited to no risk of the hooks and eyes coming undone.

The image on the below shows two rows of alternating hook and eye tape. The hooks and eyes are fairly substantial corset hooks and corset eyes that are riveted on to a stiff twill tape. Notice how each twill tape has a hook and then an eye in alternating sequence. Be sure to confirm how the hooks and eyes line up before you cut the tape! A hook needs to be opposite an eye. If you’re not careful you can end up with the problem below.

Keep in mind it's also very difficult to undo a garment you're wearing yourself if you have used alternating hook and eye tape. Not easy to get into or get out of, but sometimes this is a good or even important detail.

When using hook and eye tape it is important that the hooks and eyes close in a manner that does not allow the skin to be visible between the two edges of fabric. If the tapes were sewn to the edge of the fabric you would get a gap between the edges of the fabric as indicated in the image below.

“right side”                                    “wrong side”



 1.
Fold and press your fabrics along the “center front” line (or the “center back” if you are applying the hook and eye tape to the backs). It is important to press this fold. Once the hook and eye tapes are sewn on, it will not be possible to press this edge.



2.
Using a narrow foot on your machine (likely a zipper foot), check that the foot will fit inbetween the hook and the eye on the tape.





3.
Open the pressed fabric edge up and align the hooks and eyes of the tape, with the fold line that indicates “center front”. Using a pencil or pen mark the center point between each hook and eye both on the tape and on the fabric. You’ll use these lines to confirm placement of the tape so mark carefully and be sure the tape does not cover the marks you make on the fabric.

4.
Stitch each of these short lines between every hook and every eye. Sewing only through the tape and the single layer of fabric. Stitch from the raw edge to the fold mark and back so that each row is double stitched.

Fold the raw ends of the tape under and stitch in the same way unless the tape will go all the way to the end of the fabric and will get bound off with it.

5.
Refold the fabric along the “center front” (or “center back”) line. Pin along the fold to make sure the fabrics stay in place. Stitch close to the riveted edge of the hooks and eyes, stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric. This will create a bone casing that allows you to slide a bone behind the hooks and eyes for further support…it does increase the challenge of getting the hooks and eyes done-up and un-done.

If you have no need or interest in creating a bone casing stitch the tape to only one layer of fabric at this point by not folding the fabric along the “center front” line.

                                                                                                                          
The following steps do not include a bone casing.

6.
The fabric was not folded back into place and the long row of stitching to secure the tape to the fabric was sewn through the tape and one layer of fabric only.





7.
Now fold the fabric into place along the “center front” line, pin along the fold and stitch a second row of stitching along the edge of the tape. Stitching through the tape and both layers of fabric.





8.
Attach the hook and eye tape for the other side onto the “sewn on” hook and eye tape. This will determine the placement of the second tape on the other piece of fabric. Slide the other piece of fabric into place so that the folded edges of the “center front” or “center back” butt snuggly against each other. Mark the tape and the fabric as outlined above.





9.
Stitch the tape to the fabric in the same way as outlined above. BUT, notice that the placement of the hook and eye tape on the fabric may not be the same. I prefer the opening not to be centered over the bar of the eyes.



View from the inside


View from the outside

 

If you want to try "Alternating Hook and Eye Tape" go to www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com and look in the "Buy Corset Supplies" section

Latice Corset

I made this corset with a ribbon corset in mind, but I wanted the full coverage of an overbust corset.  I love the look of ribbon corsets - they're feminine and pretty. There's a few things I'll do differently next time to refine the look but I'm fairly happy with how this turned out.                                      I used just one layer of fabric.The fabric is coutil - "bzy floral" coutil in cream. I used mostly spiral bones but did put spring steels down the center back. The busk has gold colour knobs and loops and the grommets down the back match; they're brass. Amazingly I was able to find flat lacing ribbon that matched the coutil to lace the corset up. All of the materials came from www.farthingales.on.ca except the wide pinky ribbon

 To add a bit of interest to the wide pink ribbon I did some machine embroidery using a vine like specialty stitch that my machine happened to have. I just used ordinary thread that matched the coutil.

Coutil, Bra Cups and Links of Interest

Farthingales has seen a few new products arrive since Christmas

·         Coutil – 5 new qualities; black w red dots has been seriously poplar, black w red roses, pale blue grey herringbone coutil and a pale blue grey matte satin coutil as well as a pale lavender rose brocade coutil (we only have half of a bolt left!)  It you’re interested in coutil you’ll want to check these out and if you have not already ordered a swatch pack of coutil – you might want to. Great item to have on hand if only for inspiration.  http://www.farthingales.on.ca/products.php?cat=coutil

·         Bra cups – so far just one style in two sizes and in both black and beige. They’ve got a little built in “cushion” to help give a bit of lift. I put them into some corsets between the fashion fabric and coutil layer – no one knows they’re there but they can make quite a difference. http://www.farthingales.on.ca/products.php?cat=pads

We’re looking into “boning in a casing”…but not the type you can buy almost anywhere. We’re looking at having our incredible German Plastic boning put into a casing so that you can get the superior boning already in a casing for quick application.  What do you think? Is this of interest? Yes, no, maybe? Click the voting button.

I regularly post pics and information on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter and on the Farthingales Blog. I post about new product, techniques and projects so any one of these may be of interest.

Check any of them or all of them out.

http://www.facebook.com/farthingalescorsets

http://www.farthingalescorsetblog.blogspot.com

http://www.Pinterset.com/farthingales

"Truly Victorian" created an Edwardian Corset Pattern and this is my project using the pattern.


The Truly Victorian “Edwardian” corset pattern is based on historical research on corsets of 1903. It has a low full bust and long hip and creates the “Pigeon Breast” look popular at the time. It does not lend its self well to modern interpretation for fashion. To get this look there is padding required and the patterns for both bum padding and breast padding are included.

The pattern envelope includes pattern pieces for the corset that will fit a chest from 32” to 58”, a waist of 19” – 45” and hip from 32” to 58” as well as bust and hip pad pattern to help create the correct silhouette.

I made this one from “diamond” coutil in a flesh tone and I embellished it with fancy stitches in pale turquoise. It does not fit my mannequin well but I love the shape.





The sizing of this pattern is unique and I really like the method that Truly Victorian has used; numbers are not used to indicate size, letters are. This means there is no confusion between the “size” of the pattern and the “size” we wear from a retail store AND we can escape the stress that numbers can cause when we think we wear a size 12 but need a size 20 pattern. The size I’ve made is “G”, which according to the chart is for a 32” waist.

I glued the pattern to card stock – something I always do, then cut along the lines indicated for a size “G”. The lines are clearly indicated and the pattern is very professional looking – I almost didn’t want to cut into it because it looked so flawless.

Instructions for this pattern are not extensive but it is not a hard corset to make. I opted not to include a lining and to use just one layer of coutil, I chose a flesh tone diamond brocade coutil.

I embellished the hip gore pieces before sewing them into the corset and I embellished the center backs before putting them together but all the other embellishing occurred after the pieces were put together. Some of my embellishment was as simple as top stitching in a contrast colour.

I used flesh colour bone casing tape to cover the raw seams and used bias strips of the “diamond” coutil to bind the top and bottom edges. I’d been a bit concerned that the coutil bias would be too thick and hard to manage but it worked beautifully and easily.  The links below should take you to the web page where the items are sold - the pattern is also sold on the web site - I just somehow missed listing it. www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com

I made a size “G” which is pretty much the middle of the sizes and I required the following items:
 

Item	Quantity	Product#	Link to catlog
13" busk	1 pair	91-8550-13	Busks
coutil	1.2 m	74-1130-20	Coutil
lacing	6m	18-7178-04	Lacing
bone casing 1/2"	5m	34-7212-20	Bone Casing
grommets size oo	30	60-8820N-kit	Grommet Kits
spring steel bones 36cm	2	50-8308-36	Spring Steel Bones
spring steel bones 34cm	4	50-8308-34
spring steel bones 32cm	4	50-8308-32
spring steel bones 35cm	4	50-8308-35
spring steel bones 33cm	2	50-8308-33

Grommets vs. Eyelets

"What is the difference between Grommets and Eyelets?"

Well, that depends on the grommets and the eyelets you are comparing. They are basically the same thing. Some people say that eyelets don't have washers but that's not a fact of all eyelets...only of some brands.

Grommets and eyelets at typically made of some type of metal (though plastic do exist), they're typically a circular short tube with a "flange" (flat end). 

 I use them primarily for the back of corsets, they strengthen the holes that the lacing goes through. The tube of the grommet or eyelet goes through the hole from the "right side of the fabric", so you'll see the flange on the outside of the garment. 

A washer looks a bit like the "flange" of the grommet or eyelet but without the tube. The washer goes on the "wrong side" of the fabric or on the "inside" of the garment. The washer keeps the grommet or eyelet secure during lacing and inhibits the grommet or eyelet pulling out of the fabric. Using fusible interfacing on the "wrong side" of the fabric also helps. Washers should always be used with grommets and eyelets unless the grommet and eyelet are just decorative.

Grommets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour) and matte black (gunmetal). washers are included and match the colour of the grommet.

Eyelets are available in brass (gold colour), nickel (silver colour), antique brass, shiny black (made of aluminum), white (made of aluminum) and matte silver (aluminum).  Washers are sold separately and are matte silver (aluminum). Aluminum does not corode when exposed to persperation which makes it a great choice for corsets that are worn alot or exposed to other moister.

It's important to note that grommets and eyelets are not universal in size. Meaning not all grommets listed as size #00 can be set with the same grommet setter. You need to have the grommet setter that was designed and engineered to set the grommet brand you have otherwise you risk a poorly set grommet or worse...a grommet stuck onto your grommet setter, which means your garment is stuck on to!

www.farthingales.on.ca

Setting Grommets a.k.a. Eyelets

Eyelet Setting Instructions

(These instructions are included with the Eyelet Setting Kit #54-8600-kit)

Hammer Setting Eyelets

If you have ever set grommets using a Hammer Setter you will notice that the Eyelet Setter appears to be missing a piece; the base. We actually did call the manufacturer to confirm that all the pieces are here and they insisted there was no base piece to be had.

1. Make the hole using item #54-8600-cutr and a rubber or rawhide mallet.
2. Take the eyelet and push the shank into the hole until the eyelet is in place.
3. Place the eyelet on a solid, hard surface, the floor is best. Your fabric will be on top facing the ceiling with the eyelet underneath, almost hidden from view.
4. Take a washer and place it over the shank of the eyelet, the eyelet and washer will be shank to shank.
   Press gently until the washer is stable.
5. Center the Eyelet Setter (#54-8600-set) over the washer hole, the shaped end should fit neatly into the hole of the washer.
6. Hold the Eyelet Setter steady and bang a few times with the rubber mallet.
   Remove the Eyelet Setter and you are done.

NOTE: If the surface you are working on is not hard the eyelet may not set evenly and you will end up with little eyelet indentations in the surface of your table.

ALWAYS test the process on scrap first.

Eyelet

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Eyelet Setting by Machine

Click here for "How to Use the Eyelet Setting Machine"

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Grommet Setting Instructions

Using hammer set style tools; kit # 60-8810-kit (for #0 size grommets) or #54-8800-kit (for #00 size grommets).

You must have a rubber or rawhide mallet.

1. Punch a hole in your fabric using the "hole punch" and rubber mallet.
2. Place the grommet on the setting base, it should fit neatly in place.
3. Place you fabric on top of the grommet, being sure that the grommet shaft is coming up through the hole in the fabric.
4. Take the washer and slip it over the grommet shank, curved side upwards.
5. Center the setting tool with it’s "nose" going through the holes in washer grommet and base.
6. Strike with the rubber mallet two or three times
7. Check the set of the grommet, re-position and strike again if needed.

ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP FABRIC FIRST

You cannot remove grommets once they are set or even partially set so be careful.

Grommet Setting

Basic Grommet Setting Tips

1. Always test your setting technique on scrap of the same fabric and same number of layers.
2. When hammer setting, always work on a stable surface which will not flex with the pounding of the hammer. The floor is the best surface but can be awkward.
3. Work slowly and carefully. It is impossible to "unset" a grommet.
4. The grommet goes on the "right side" or "outside" of the garment and the washer goes on the inside.
5. Always use a washer!
6. Only use rubber or rawhide mallets.

Grommet Machines

The grommet machine sets grommets perfectly and with ease. It is however quite large and not to be considered a mobile unit. It requires three screws (not included) in order to be mounted onto a table. As it functions on the principle of leverage it must be mounted on a table in order to work effectively.

The machine and the dies for setting the grommets are sold separately. We stock only size #00 dies but other sizes are available by "Special Order"

INSTRUCTIONS

SETTING GROMMETS

A) By Machine
1. Punch hole in fabric	2. Place the washer over the spike in the bottom die. It is slightly concave on one side and this side should face upward. Pretend it has to hold a drop of water.
3. Fit the grommet through the hole in the fabric. Place the grommet and fabric onto the spike of the lower die, fabric side down.	4. Slowly pull the lever down so that the grommet sets evenly.
B) With Pliers
Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch. Use rubber mallet. Place grommet through hole in fabric. Pliers should be in your hand with the longest center "probe" coming up from the bottom jaw. Place the fabric and grommet on this with the grommet against the jaw, the fabric upper most and the probe through the grommet hole. Slowly squeeze the pliers shut to attain an even set. NOTE: We have found that the shank of grommet is not always long enough on this kit and that a rough finish can result. This could be uncomfortable next to the skin and a placket may be required to finish the garment.
C) With Hammer Punch Tool
Hammer Setting Kits require a rubber or rawhide hammer which is NOT included. Punch hole in fabric with included hole punch. Place grommet through the hole in the fabric. Place grommet and fabric, with grommet on bottom, onto the round metal disk. Grommet should rest in the circular groove found on the top of the disk.	Place washer over grommet with fabric in between. Place the steel setting tool over the washer with the "probe" entering the grommet and washer hole.
Be sure all pieces are in place and hammer 3-4 times.	Grommets can be purchased at www.farthingales.on.ca